FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE NEW YORK
by Jeremy Danté
new york is the epitome of street style. while paris and london have their own respective scenes, the streets of new york are king. the designers that live in their studios have cultivated a perception of style that is truly american. vastly inspired by a range of influences from past and present. there is a hybrid aesthetic that we see on the runways, and the american style scene grows stronger and stronger with each year. other fashion capitals bring their own set of influences, but we as american’s are the most important. we brought with us the internet. america is the epicenter of exploitation and with our highly publicized, reality TV infested ideals, we create and break markets. these are the style collections that have communicated the clearest vision for style, as it relates to america. the home of mass appeal, commercialization and the multi-layered culture.
HOOD BY AIR of new york city influence and represntation is hood by air. a brewing fashion brand that has been long in the making of its own history. they started back in the early 2000’s, putting out these dope hats with lucite lettering. then they disbanded, from what i heard in new york city social circles. they somehow reformed, and started putting together more stronger concepts and full collections. just last year, they were awarded the LVMH young designers award. the award is the equivalent of the CFDA fashion fund put on by vogue, except LVMH is the leading fashion conglomerate in all of luxury. the awarding process of such funding for LVMH is new. an interesting choice winner, hood by air is a true defender of american culture, at the epicenter of new york city. blending transsexuality, with house and hip-hop culture, the collection truly fucks your mental with regard to style. there was an asexual componenet to the collection which is unseen in fashion. there is a radical approach to how HBA does all their shit. with the awarding of the LVMH young designers award, you feel a greater feel of luxury in textile. i love the collection for it’s representation of a slightly unrepresented piece of american culture and view point of strength. i love the idea of really going against the grain, and think there is a greater sense of validation within that framework of thinking when LVMH is shooting you an award. the contest has hailed some of the strongest design talent, the world over. of course, hood by air is a unique brand that i’ve been able to follow before all the style.com hype, back when it was a label existing within underground street culture, among the gays, and circling the community where the greatest of influences often live. with the conceptual designs hitting the runway, i am curious to see what is put into production. the use of fur in the collection made the greatest impact.
JASON WU sophisticated sensuality glided down the runways of new york fashion week, by way of jason wu. warm toned use of brown started the collection, as a progressive cool began to show close to the end. the collection featured sleek design, slim silhouettes and beautiful use of color, in a standard way that only further accentuated the clean lines of the collection. crown molded walls surrounded the runway as beautifully simple use of fur was seen throughout. at the close of the collection there was a focus on outwear as standalone pieces, which i really loved. fall is definitely all about the outerwear. there was an expectation fulfilled, in that, wu is developing his customer even further. adult, but in a way that is free and still maintaining of youth all the same, the collection is a true design progression. as featured in my pre-fall collection, the same sense of consistency and bankable deliverables is here in this collection. this was a wardrobe of classics, but seemingly re-interpreted in this way that made you look at them in a new way. while cut and color are key, there is an energy to the clothes and a clear vision of the wu woman was presented. with his expansion into creating advertising campaigns, i love the collections; but have yet to see a campaign that really allows the strengths of wu’s collections to be showcased. there’s a classic appeal in the clothes, that reads as boring in the ad campaigns. he normally features some of the most famous models in the world, and even makes a cameo himself. wondering who will be cast and where the campaign will be shot for this collection. the focus seemed to be upon, ‘sexy’. but not in an over the top way, it was subtle and gentle.
OSCAR DE LA RENTA the first collection following his passing, and the debut collection of his successor, peter copping. the ODLR fall collection was a return to quality and signified an understanding of house DNA. the collection was significantly more understated in a way that oscar himself had a flare for drama, but there is a refinement by way of youth that was seen here. a representation of polish and new perspective that was respectful. the usual use of vibrance in palette was visible, which honored the legacy and choice aesthetic of de la renta. there is an elegance that is felt from the brand, and i am very interested to see how the iconic label’s design archives will be re-interpreted. at last nights oscars, actress sienna miller debuted a dress from this collection, sending the de la renta name into the award season fashion stratosphere, for the first time. while there have been strong developments for the brand, this era we live revolves around publicity, and that is what peter copping is doing. the turn around time is remarkable, and is indicative of the care that was put into the decisions for copping to take the lead as a successor. copping, previously at the house of nina ricci, seems like a fitting choice. considering his work at ricci, the de la renta name is a great next footing for his design career. this collection was the tip of the iceberg, and there is much ground to be covered. i am excited to see the developments into next season, i am also excited to see how the marketing approach will be re-developed as well. quality was the name of the game, and copping shoots and scores.
PROENZA SCHOULER usually structured and tight, the fall collection from proenza schouler came with greater ease and softer lines. there was a greater focus on the beauty of details, seen in the trims and the use of sequin. it was among the most creative of collections show in new york city, for the season. the duality of proenza’s jack and lazaro is one of my favorites of american style. there is a truly artistic influence in the clothes. the creative process which resulted in the process for the two was more unintentional than season’s past, spoke lazaro. as the first winner’s of the coveted CFDA vogue fashion fund award, it’s as though proenza is a leader of new school fashion and design. following their entrance into fashion came other design hopefuls who have seemingly carried and continued the aesthetic that they represented here in america, first. so as the american fashion scene continues to thrive with new viable talent. proenza is definitely daddy. the collection was held in the old space where the whitney museum once was, here in new york city. and the artistic feel of the collection was appropriate for that very reason. in an almost against the grain attempt, the collection hosted a range of looks that were much more exposed. it felt almost spring in a sense, the way the collection was styled on the runway. but thinking with a stylist framework on, i would love to see the ways things could be layered. there was an artistic science to the collection. of course, technicality of textile is expected with a collection of luxury at the level of proenza. strong collection, overall and a collection i am excited to see shot in editorial. interestingly, there was little to no focus on accessories.
THE ROW mary-kate and ashley olsen named their high end brand, the row, with inspiration to saville row; london’s premiere block of sharply tailored men’s suits. the collection drips in androgyny, modernism and clean minimalism. while tailoring was the early focus of the brand, which started with one t-shirt; we see much more these days. the twins have grown up in the industry, beginning work as actresses at just nine months old. the taste which is represented in their collections is almost as well developed as their minds of business. the row is poised as one of the strongest american labels, all around. with entrance into the fragrance market last year, the accessories and womenswear from the twins has been hailed by the council of fashion designer’s of america, while industry heads nod with respect to the womenswear collection. the ways that style is reinterpreted by the row is so interesting, because it’s so forward thinking. it’s often times much more cognitive, in contrast to other labels. it’s about creating trends, not following them. about expanding ideas, not ahering to the pre-existing. there are rarely any pop colors, nor is there use of print. it’s very adult in a serious fashion way, and this collection was among their most beautiful. it’s almost as if the row is the american competitor of céline in paris. but even in that comparison, there is a different type of development at the row. it’s quiet, in this really exclusive and privileged way. distinct in palette, fluid by lines, luxe by design- dripping from the accessories and melting from every seam. the row is among my favorite labels, but some seasons are much more difficult for me to understand. this fall, they hit the nail on the head, providing competition for other minimal, new school labels while extending themselves to a realm of creativity that provides an offering of beauty that cannot be denied. hands up for the olsens!
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