FALL COLLECTIONS • TOP FIVE MILAN
by Jeremy Danté
it was a collection of firsts and lasts in milan, this season. we seen the new creative director at gucci taking the helm, presenting an extension of the 70’s style concepts that were once put on by past creative director, frida giannini. though underwelmingly presented, the new change remains as yet unseen as to how successful the new successor will, in fact, be for the legendary house. pucci closed the tenure of dundas at pucci, while others played the field with greater diversification, and sleek italian style. milan is one of those places that reinterprets glamour in a very personalized way. there is excess, and then the restrain of true luxury, all in looking to provide a greater breadth of what global fashion is today.
BALLY always one for sleek style, bally is one of my favorite labels to watch from season to season. usually opting out of the runway show presentation, the bally aesthetic is one of refined elegance and beautiful style. founded in switzerland in 1851, bally began as a shoe manufacturer and developed through the years. the collection was presented via look book and the collection palette weighs fair against other labels of the season. the palette was strong in it’s use of camel tones, as the collection also offered dope use of greens. the collection was especially strong it’s use of leather. collection of refined concepts, bally didn’t break any new ground and almost followed suit with what has worked well for other labels. a typical fall collection, what was presented here stresses that of quality and not innovation. i loved the collection for simple reasons, among them palette was wide ranged. filled to the brim with powerful looks, the collection packs it’s power as a whole. bally is definitely a label that has potential to really raise the bar. i don’t understand why the reason to do lookbooks as oppose to runway presentations. the collection was expertly styled, and was almost on the verge of being completely color blocked from look to look. among the strongest look books for the fall season, with an array of style options that are style standards.
EMILLIO PUCCI the last emilio pucci collection designed by peter dundas walked for milan fashion week this season. the usually sexy pucci aesthetic, which dundas is to credit for was ever present. prior to dundas being installed as CD of the house, was matthew williamson. williamson has continued his love for print in his own design aesthetic. and with dundas, he came from the house of roberto cavalli, another label that favors print. dundas was able to inject a bohemian flare at the house of pucci during his six year tenure. producing of such designs brought a new layer of publicity and interest from models in the industry, and celebrities alike. the pucci name returned to fashion columns and red carpets around the world, and what dundas has done in revitalizing the sex appeal, often associated with italian culture has been in full swing. whats more interesting of the pucci house isn’t this present collection or even where dundas will end up next, but who will succeed dundas. will this new creative director ensure continuity of the sexy bohemian flavor, or will the house seek a much more demure aesthetic. will an entirely new talent be introduced, or will there be an internal selection process for who is a part of the pucci atelier, currently? with shifts in fashion happening more often than not in the past five years, i’ll be keeping an eye on pucci; their progression and will be mindful of any digression as well. peter dundas has done an exceptional job during his time at pucci, one that he should be very proud of. a strong vision that was a new take on pucci was presented, and his refreshing take on italian style fashion at the house will be missed.
FENDI the genius of karl lagerfeld, collaboratively represented along with silvia fendi was in full swing for this fall show season. the fendi furs were out to play and there was a focus on accessories, as a middle market of greater potential, for the house. the theme of exotic birds was present in the collection, as seen peeking out of the collection’s handbags. the diversification of the european casting process was well represented this season, as the collection house beautiful warm tones with innovative use of leather. the silhouettes represented, and shapes that were designed brought about a greater modernity of the fendi design DNA, which has been an on-going process for the last several years. i loved this collection, with it’s use of futurism and still familiar, mod-like design presence. geometic textile squares and print were seen throughout the collection, as fur ankle boots and even eyewear all had a presence throughout the collection’s runway show. the voluminous down jackets, and the smock-like use of leather was genius. new faces and new supers all walked together for a collection that was among my favorites of fendi, and for the fall/winter 2015 in milan overall. great concepts, strong enough to evoke a difference, while gentle enough to not disrupt the flow of consumption. beginning with warm tones, the collection palette cooled to the finale, presenting a chic set of off-white pieces. there were a few looks that provide an ease in transition from season to season, and with expectation of a dope campaign to follow, I’m excited about this collection on the editorial front as well. full range of greatness from cast to concept.
NO. 21 always looking to represent some sense of balance, my collection selections from season to season are a collective of minimal designs that speak to the unspoken appeal of simplistic beauty, while some collections hinge on theatricality and really pushing forward. alessandro dell’aqua is a designer who understands the balance of both worlds. being plucked from his own namesake label, not being able to use his own name, the No. 21 collections represent a more personal touch of style from him, in my mind. beautiful textures of knitwear in wool were balanced with a high end luxe feel of gold at the entrance of the collection. like many other color stories of beauty, those shades swarmed into waves of blue and droplets of green. those shades soon began to fade into soft pinks and beige, all while the concept of fall felt strongly represented. the idea of silhouettes was deconstructed in a beautiful way, as ruffles were composed on the female form that pushed the limitation of what has been typically associated with chic. interesting as a concept, the collection housed this deconstructed silhouette in the form of dresses and one piece style items. i loved the use of black, and the muted tones of the collection most. the casting was as diverse as the collections concepts, and i was very pleased to see this collection. a wide range of style was seen and No. 21 has been a favorite of mine for a while. this season, however, there was greater strength in design and casting, as a main element to my selection process this go ’round. a viable balance of beauty, design and feminine presence.
PRADA the crowned jewel of milan is the house of prada. the top tier of luxury, and the most coveted booking for a model in all of milan- there exists a power and thus an influence at the hand of miucccia prada that is undeniable. there is a clear mod vibe i am constantly getting from the house of prada. that feel was present in this collection. miuccia is clearly influenced by this style favoring, as you see it in the miu miu collections as well. the house of prada always represents a feel of cleanliness in concept that is kept very tight. among the more diversified casts seen at prada in a very long time, there appeared three models of color in the runway show. a feat that is damn near unheard of in the world of fashion. certain bookings can change a females career in the world of modeling, and with the number of new faces of color that have been seen, this represents greater forms of progress in a very exciting way. with the top tier of fashion being largely associated with a house like prada, the collection is quiet in it’s influence, and that same silence in strength was well represented in the collections casting. a strong campaign from prada is always expected, and this season is no different. i am beyond thrilled for this collection, if even only based on the casting of all these new faces. prada leads, others follow. italian style is refined and subdued in a way that alters what has been associated with the fashion capital in the past. in my mind, long gone are the days of fashion shock factors and the need for gimmicks or unnecessary seeking of attention through use of humor. sophisticated and self assured, the collections seen in this seasons rankings for milan all represent the future of milan, as a fashion capital with a clear and valued view of style. prada closes and opens- end all, be all.
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