Tag: american design

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: PROENZA SCHOULER

NEW YORK – himalayan inspiration filled the designs of jack mccollough & lazaro hernandez for the pre-fall. in a continued effort to re-establish good taste amidst designers in america, proenza schouler is definitely atop my list of favorites. of the more downtown cool labels in new york; jack & lazaro create such original collections each season. in the pre-season that effort is shown in nothing less than the stylized i’ve come to expect. it’s very interesting to see if labels use to pre-season to hint at a new direction or if they use it as a continuation for the direction we seen in the season prior. a small collection, in number, the pre-fall set by proenza is one of jaw dropping color & beautifully orchestrated contrast. unusually vibrant for the fall, it’s clear that designers are taking an electric approach to the FW12 season, even just in the pre-season.

modern silhouettes were seen, as outerwear played the headliner of design for this collection. powerful in design & strong through construction, everything about this pre-season effort screamed strength. minimal in many larger elements, despite their inspiration or choice in direction whether an opposition or conjoining of seasonal trends with other labels in the market, jack & lazaro both know how to balance the new with the expected, perfectly. one aspect i’ve come to love of the proenza schouler label is their eye for ill accessories. that aspect of the labels creative force was noticeably absent for the pre-season. whether the best is yet to come & they are preserving ammunition until show is one of many exciting elements to look forward to, im sure. in seasons past, i’ve been intensely obsessed with the labels PS1 bag & like to see a bit of design opposition from the labels old work in the form of diamond quilted stitching & use of fur with the few handbags that did manage to get photographed in this set.

overall, the collection presents a refreshing take fall fashion & im super excited to see what will be unveiled on the runway for new york fashion week. to reiterate, proenza schouler is one of my favorite labels in the american market. their eye for balancing modern & classic while also fusing the unconventional with the necessary is what keeps them in the upper echelon of my style psyche. founded in 2002, historically, the first ever collection by proenza schouler was bought, entirely; by barney’s. that feat is one that is unheard of in fashion’s incredibly competitive market; that buying power & belief from the industry is what keeps the label consistent & not only that, but relevant. a beautiful slice of design to hold us over until the madness of fashion week returns. come fall, i expect a killing for the fall.  [source]

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: 3.1 PHILLIP LIM

NEW YORK – floored- that’s what i was, instantly, when seeing the 2012 pre-fall collection by phillip lim. reported to be inspired by V for vendetta & sin city; the collection by lim was without a doubt, a lively & action packed set of modernity. incredibly restricted silhouettes were contrasted with bold design statements in the form of graphic knits that read words that signaled lim’s comic inspiration. in palette, the collection was heavily based on reds, oranges & use of black was contrasted with that. speckled wool pieces were seen & allowed the collections designs to resonate with a deeper, much more classical appeal. sickening coats, sleek footwear, dope bags- everything in this collection screamed style & appealed to me on every level.

overall, the collection played to the tune of my minimalist heart & clean lines rules the silhouettes in a timeless manner that will surely carry consumers through the years, far beyond the parameters of the 2012 pre-fall season. athletic in some respects, the collection possessed a sense of vintage appeal in my eyes. inclusion of accessories was a highlight as i have been completely obsessed with the bag seen in look no 9 & 28. bordering masculine & feminine, the designs were androgynous in a way while slight aspects like sheer or, of course, the heels drew the line a tad bit more clear. from start to finish i loved each & every look in this set. lim shines like a superstar designer & fashion veteran for the pre-season. with that said, im expecting him to pull out the big guns, conceptually, when show season rolls around, come february. a collection of strength & beautiful execution. a standing style ovation to lim, very happy with what he presented.

furthermore, i feel as though designers like lim, along with a few others in new york, are completely resurfacing the reputation of american design. seemingly influenced by european design & new school methods of design innovation through, well, skill- there exists this group of young men in new york that are changing the market. those designers will be focused upon & mentioned at greater lengths over the course of the next year, here. i wanted to make apparent my love for lim’s work, as a new york based designer, very clear & as a supplement to my remarks about american fashion in my most recent video fashion report. what america & americans represent is opportunity & the fight for the best & oddly enough, this new crop of designers isn’t exactly your typical image of what we, as americans, would associate with the ‘all-american’ image. one collection at a time, it should not go without saying that designers like lim are making history in front of our very eyes in represented what american is, diversified. [source]

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: THAKOON

NEW YORK – to balance the depths of color used by other designers in the fall season, thakoon stayed in his own lane by creating a young & refreshing set of milky tones for the 2012 pre-season. soft & young, the collection was a light take on the pre-fall as hemlines were curiously high. taking into consideration that the pre-fall is a bit of a segue season, stylistically, for consumers- the most appealing aspect at first glance was the powered palette. beautifully shot collection images seen the set of looks against a high end interior while the model was seen in multi-colored lips from shot to shot. while some pieces didn’t seem very functional, i couldn’t help but question other aspects. the gathered waists & some of the silhouettes of the dresses were unattractive to me.

the shapes within this collection were interesting; when not completely strict, they appeared exaggerated & with extensive volume. i liked the designs of the collection but when taking a closer look, i was not as impressed with the choice of textile, some of the striping details & some of the dress designs just seemed a bit lackluster. all in all, the collection housed a number of looks that i either absolutely loved or didn’t care for entirely. as seen in my other pre-fall collection picks, i tend to go for more lean designs, being constantly attracted to clean lines & refined concepts. i loved the outerwear from this collection & appreciated the beauty elements that were captured, completely. the sliced blazer was a no for me, while the cable knit blazer was a go. i liked that thakoon attempted to revise some of his own style standard by doing two-toned textile pieces, like the grey knitwear sleeved dress or the multi-layered sweaters. an ambitious attempt for sure, the collection sparks my style interest just enough. while some areas could stand to be fine tuned, i acknowledge that this is the pre-season & that some efforts are kept in aside for show season. striking in presentation & powerful through use of details, the collection is cohesive & well executed.

though some aspects of this collection from thakoon weren’t my favorite, i do value him as a designer contributing to a radical revision to the american fashion sector. one of just a handful, thakoon has made a name for himself as designers should & has my respect as an artist. his approach to design is completely refreshing & embodies new minimalism perfectly. as an active piece of the puzzle to re-creating fashion classics in the overly aggressive new york fashion scene, i highly value his work as some of the best in america, as well as the fashion industry. even as a developing designer, one that is still not as established as other american labels, i feel as though thakoon is making larger, original contributions to the reshaping of america’s history through each of his collections. saluting with style, thakoon is that dude.  [source]

collection images: the row, resort

crisy, clean & classically modern- the 2012 resort collection presented by the row is one of sophisticated style & ageless appeal. nautical influences by way of navy stripes added that resort feel often associated with the hamptons for me. while the colllections closing pieces were more upper eastside than anything else; i love the combination & versatile approach the olsen’s took to the pre-season. a clear indication of preference through style is being clearly translated season after season by the row & i find myself more inspired over time. though simple, the style quality of each collection with each piece is undeniable. a strong collection that will surely lead to a stronger collection during new york fashion week.

imagesource | style

fall collections, new york: halston

in their journey back to the runway, the iconic house of halston presents a beautiful FW11 collection true to the labels trailblazing american history. created in the 1960’s, the halston label rose to fame by way of jackie o., anjelica houston, lauren hutton, bianca jagger & liza minnelli who wore halston regularly. once dubbed the ‘premiere designer of all america’ by newsweek, the halston label is experiencing a revitalization & popularly publicized, sarah jessica parker is also creatively involved. modernized silhouettes & effortlessly beautiful dresses fill this seaon’s intimatel numbered collection & with each season, gradually, the label is moving closer & closer to the helm of high fashion. leather & fur are seen within the collection, fused to the halston signature use of jersey as sheena moulton, austria & nyasha matonhodze were seen among this season’s cast. im always intensely interested in labels that are undergoing change; halston being one of them. as the halston label has many aspects of historical value to their credit, roy halston was the first designer to start licensing with third parties & famously designed collections for JC penney- long before fast fashion, roy halston have already paved the way with america’s most iconic women. relaxed, beautifully & chic- i love the collection presented for fall & am anxiously anticipating the label’s development. nothing is more respect than a phoenix rising from the ashes. well executed, superb style.   

imagesource | style

fall collections, new york: the row

as one of the strongest design labels to surface on the american fashion scene, the row is a collection of incredibly large influence & the olsen’s have more than exceeded any expectation anyone has had for their design ventures of the past five years. decked in lavish furs & beautiful animal print, a combined presentation of stunning simplicity is well balanced with the collections use of exquisite & exotic design concepts. with a bit of influence from classic formal wear & 90’s trend, the row presents a beautiful collection this fall. a wide range of looks was presented in the form of multi-colored furs as clean lined dress designer were accented with lace & leather. from blazers with leather sleeves to the sky blue fur, the models walked the runway were made up with a dark lip that allowed the chic volume to be cranked to two more notches. i love see what the olsen’s will create next; they’ve remained in privacy & have really mastered the art of style & how to introduce & reinvent beautiful pieces with their own interesting twist. i love the animalistic concepts that are subtly introduced this season.

imagesource | style

fall collections, new york: gilded age

the gilded age, in referencing a period of time in american history, was a time deep rooted in industrialization & modernization thorugh rapid economic growth. the FW11 gilded age womenswear & menswear collections were revealed yesterday, in a presentation style show in new york city. the collections by gilded age expectedly contain some form of grit- it’s hard edged, rugged & tough style. as a direction i’ve come to expect from them; this season, those elements of strength were greatly represented. one aspect of this collection i enjoyed most was the styling; the pieces themselves aren’t particularly groundbreaking but the styling of each look is what allows the collection to set itself apart. notes of american heritage representing our style history, stateside, were seen as use of plaid & denim were seen. wool coats were topped with colored buttons complete with thoughtful details & even with the women’s pieces, i felt a strong sense of style coming through. vests, cloth belts, boots & mega-stylish knitwear really enhanced the style factor for what was seen in this collection. distressed denim gave the set a greater old american feel & still, the construction of the coats & how each look was created didn’t feel void of progression or fashion forward sensibility. im very inspired & pleased with this collection this season; in many ways i feel proud to be an american while viewing this collection. my favorite collection of the season, thus far.

imagesource | gq