Tag: american designer

FALL MENSWEAR: MARC JACOBS

NEW YORK – with collections by marc jacobs, i really have to watch my step- there are some seasons when i just don’t understand the direction. thankfully, this sesaon, for menswear- that was not the case. heavily based in a palette of rich yellows & golden tones of mustard, marc jacobs created a flawless set that captures his love of bold style & vibrant color. i’ve long been impressed by marc’s ability to use color & print in modern ways that balance the retro with the ultra-modern & progressive. this season, he created a very interesting set which balanced both ends of the spectrum perfectly. dubbed “weird luxury”, inspired by ninties skaters & istambul, the collection provides an answer to jacobs’ afinity for combining style genres seemlessly to create something unseen, beautifully inspired & original. most impressive was the collections color story.

i loved the looks that were presented- strong lines were presented along with a range of both formal & casual pieces. as complete looks as well as piece by piece, the collection packed a powerful punch. standing out amidst the sea of menswear collections which present the same knitwear/sportcoat/denim/trouser combo each season. the collection hosted a set of colored-lens sunglasses that worked as a beautiful extension of the collection & is sure to be a huge hit in the accessories market. in addition to the headlining tones of yellow that engulfed the collection, use of oatmealed beige, green, jewel toned red, deep brown & navy were artistically styled into the collection. in terms of collection look book styling, the overall direction of the fall set was done expertly well. use of plaid, suede & additional accessories including hats & bags allowed the collection to standout among it’s american competitors. a standout not only in the american market, but the global market; i was actually very surprised i liked this collection at first glance, considering my feelings toward jacobs’ collections of the past. beautiful palette with stunning use of contrasted colors, modern concepts & surprising inspiration managed to make this collection a must see, in my opinion, for the fall. [source]

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: REED KRAKOFF

NEW YORK – the retail game in conjunction with high fashion is a tricky thing these days. as often seen here, there is an entire fashion roster of talents ranging from models to stylists, editors & creative directors. while the name reed krakoff might not ring a bell instantly, despite mentions praise of his work here; you’ve seen his work whether you knew it or not. most visible is krakoff’s work with leather goods company coach. with reported revenue of $3.23 billion in 2009; coach has managed to become a mainstay in the accessories market with their handbags while also extending furhter out into timepieces, sunglasses, scarves & fragrances. krakoff’s eye is seen clearly through his own namesake lable which takes the same design basis of coach & turns the luxury appeal way up while expanding beyond the confines of accessories & stretches through womenswear.

as a creative force in american fashion, krakoff has served as vice president for the council of fashion designers of america (CFDA) & has been awarded twice for his outstanding work in accessories. krakoff’s excellence in handbag design are evident when looking at his collections & an expansion of his eye is thoughtfully translated in his clothes. as a multi-talent of true vision, krakoff is also a photographer & his artistic taste is on a level all it’s own. as one of my absolute favorites in american design, reed presents yet another incredibly strong & distinct set of designs for the pre-fall season. what i love of fall is the depth of the collection palettes & those bases were covered within this set while particular attention was paid to relaxed silhouettes & strict lines. beautiful green accents drove the collections appeal over the edge for me as the palette blossomed from a set of stoned greys to an overwhelmingly chic set of green dresses, magazine clutches & a matching jacket & skirted leather look.

balanced with powdered salmon tones & a bit of oatmeal, the collection was beautifully sequenced & blew me away, even in the pre-season. upon discovering krakoff’s work on the runways of new york fashion week, i am continually inspired by his clean & modern approach to female style & his effortless ability to bring function & fashion together in such a chic manner. from palette to silhouette, considering tailoring & overall vision as a collection- i love this, completely. a stunning prelude to the fall season & another great addition to reed’s growing archives. incredible use of python & leather, sick bags, chic sheer & a dope balance along the line that separates masculinity & femininity. again, one of my favorite designers in america right now. [source]

collection images: michael angel, resort

a wildy impressive set of images were presented in the form of the 2012 resort collection designed by michael angel. i’ve loved the michael angel label’s use of print & have noted the evolution of this label, in design, here on this blog for a few seasons now. seen against dark backdrops, the artwork inspired pieces take on greater life & become alive in each image. incredibly impressive, the collection dabs into a wide set of colors, prints, cuts & silhouettes while accurately representing style from an american perspective. among one of my favorites for the pre-season, for sure. im consistently impressed season after season by the michael angel label; im more than eager to see what they’ll show for new york fashion week.

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collection images: jen kao, resort

intricate use of print was the main attraction for the 2012 resort collection by jen kao. based in new york city, established in 2007, kao is of taiwanese ethnicity & was raised in kansas. representing a new era in american fashion design, kao’s style of design has been hailed as ‘art inspired’ & clearly, those signatures are well represented for the pre-season. while intimate in number, the collection holds value in the few pieces that are seen while timeless style & trend relativity are all felt in what is presented. a controlled palette for the most part, the collections use of green is modern & fresh, young & sophisticated.

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collection images: marc jacobs, resort

while the design genius of marc jacobs is clearly evident in his work as creative director with louis vuitton, i always struggle in my attempts to understand the beauty of his own name sake collections, each season. for the 2012 resort season, marc presents a milky palette with use of print & what appear to be deconstructed cocktail dresses. while marc has always seemed to represent a bit of punk rock style or design rebellion, i am not particularly a fan of the resort collection, nor do i favor the aesthetics of his ad campaign direction from season to season. while many fashion heads hail marc for his work with his own labels, as well as his work with vuitton; i will say that im not completely understanding the vision. granted no two stylized visions are alike, i do respect marc for his position in fashion & for his clearly represented influence but i tend to lean more towards design that is much more polished & refined. perhaps my understanding of design is a bit more minimal & far too commercialized, in terms of marketing & concept, to be compared to the work of marc jacobs. im not feeling this collection.

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collection images: donna karan, resort

luke warm luxury was seen for the 2012 resort collection designed by iconic womenswear designer, donna karan. stunning silhouettes were accented by a black & white with red for contrast. signature elements of draping were seen as interesting construction was presented throughout the collections coats. billowing dresses & some sheer textiles managed to balance the feel of classical & modern simultaneously throughout the collection as 50 looks all appeared stunningly in the set. from looks that could be worn in the office to cocktail dresses & gown that could be worn at the baddest galas- a wide range of donna karan style signatures was seen & clearly translated are the aspects of luxury, class & stylized sophistication.

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collection images: michael kors, resort

bum rushing the resort pre-season, it seems as though new york’s biggest designer names are going the fuck in, in terms of collections. combining design concepts we’ve seen for his SS11 & FW11 collections, designer michael kors takes the opportunity to once more represent neon colors & a bit of scuba gear inspiration. a fitting collection for the resort pre-season, i liked what was presented but found no sense of excitement; even considering the large number of looks that were created. i have noticed that the kors label has become much more modernized & refined over time- almost as if they are minimalizing all of the unecessary & stipping each collection, each season down to the essentials. while neon colors make the collections style essentials seem groundbreaking, for the most part, i had expected to see something along these lines. that said, i applaud the consistency in design aesthetic from what we seen during the last two seasons, to now.

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