Tag: british label

FALL MENSWEAR: BURBERRY PRORSUM

 

MILAN –  as the leading british label of the moment, burberry has dominated for the past few seasons & i’ve definitely developed an emotional attachment to them since my live stream a few seasons back. generally, i approach menswear during show season with a slight hesitation. i know what i can expect, considering the number of season’s i’ve taken more of an active interest. i often talk about these requirements or limitations that exist in menswear & each season those limitations become more & more clear to me. in comparison to womenswear, most labels can’t even extend the level of creativity that their women’s collections can. for men, it’s the coats, the hats, blah, blah, blah. but beyond my assumption of the blah came a pleasant surprise in the form of burberry’s latest fall menswear collection. a sensible remixed set of the classics was presented all while allowing a feeling of new to be represented.

i consider what i respond to pretty simple; i like certain colors & am generally more minimal when it comes to structure or silhouette. to me, style shouldn’t be complicated, im very much about effortlessness. so, naturally, i look for those things in a collection. i look for beauty, inspired concepts & thoughtful details. i respond to things that are clean & classic with a touch of modernization & all those elements were represented, this season, in the latest burberry men’s collection. given the weather conditions in burberry’s base of london, their collections have a deep rooted history in the creation of the rain or trench coat. the show began with the sound of rainfall as the first look was a belted trench which had umbrella’s accompanying the models on the catwalk. it was all very straight forward, crisp & sharply tailored at the front end of the runway sequence. as the expected slim fit trousers, newsboy caps & three piece suits made their expected cameos in the expected tones of black, white & grey with little to no contrast of other more vibrant tones. most appealing to me in this collection was the grey pieces, the use of wool & more tamed usage of studs. the burberry label has been more edgy in their use of studs in the last two seasons & im glad to see that this concept or design addition is slowly dying down, being used in more controlled, more subtle forms. studded gloves, umbrellas & laptop bags were thoughtfully included into the collection. multi-colored patterns & stripes accented classical pieces of knitwear & trench coats- elevating the sense of new to the otherwise typical collection.

those same modern palette notes on the collections accessories & leather bags were seen as the use of color seemed to be used much more freely as the collection drew closer & closer to it’s end. the color palette grew more & more beautifully, rich & deep as velvet looks walked alongside leather coats, next to contrasted tones of teal, maroon & mustard yellow. the collection seemed to appeal more & more to the younger demographic toward it’s close as there was a larger presence of flash, vibrance & exotic detail. diamond quilted coats in militant greens & brown fur collars skated on the runway alongside stoned faces of bejeweled foxes, which appeared on dress shirts & sweaters. while i’ve expressed my hatred of velvet, this collections use of it was sophisticated & beautiful as oppose to it being hideous or camp, which is how i’ve seen it used by other designers in the past. at the close, the familiar sound of rainfall drummed along the runway through the sound system as the lights were dimmed to allow a holographic image of rain to be projected. following the projection of rainfall, the house lights were again signaled on & the cast of models did their final walk with opened umbrellas. overall, christopher bailey is an outstanding talent at burberry who has allow the company & historical label to dominate in the high end arena through skillful execution & modern ideas. as popular or played as the burberry label has become in recent years, i value bailey’s creative approach & value his skill set as a director. superb collection & a true reworking of classic items that will never, ever go out of style. one of my favorite men’s collection this fall, no doubt.

collection images: erdem, resort

as resort collections return, in triplicate, following last weeks set of reviews erdem casts guienevere van seenus for their resort 2012 collection images. seen on a teal blue backdrop, the collection hosts a wide range of concepts all threaded through a common approach to style. brought to life through the imaginative mind of erdem moralioğlu, the erdem label is based in london, while the designer himself was born in montreal, canada. after completion of a masters degree in 2003, the erdem label quickly shot off in london, following a string of accolades from fashion’s most prestigious entities. in 2005, erdem was awarded the fashion fringe award, which followed with 2007’s swarovski british fashion council fashion enterprise award. in 2008, the label was awarded the BFC’s fashion award, in 2009 the fashion future award & just last year took the price for the british fashion council/vogue designer fashion fund award. all this & erdem was hailed as 1 of 1000 of the most influential people by the evening standard. for the resort pre-season, a refined direction is both represented & felt as the british based label clearly defines sharp tailoring & interesting design. use of floral print, navy lace & contrasts of red & orange are seen as the collection taps into a refined, modern direction. impressive, as yet, for a pre-season collection & im very excited to see what the lable has in store for the SS12 show season. solid set of design, sophisticated as ever.

imagesource | style

fall collections, london: burberry prorsum

as one of the most anticipated collections of london fashion week, the FW11 burberry prorsum collection took bold tones & british style signatures to the next level. in a surprise twist, one of our favorite faces, ms. jourdan dunn opened the show to a roaring start in a bold orange coat, toting burberry’s signature plaid print that was incorporated into an orange handbag. the london based design label has rapidly pronounced it’s strengths & appreciation for their british heritage. in casting dunn, who is of british nationality herself, that move alone is a large statement from the label who has been a leader in fashion, not just in london, but internationally. while focusing on mod styles that slightly reference 60’s style, structure was seen in the collections coats while bold tones allowed a modernized feel throughout. beautiful plaids were seen alongside vibrant reds, orange, blue & yellow while sleek lines rules the collection this season. a stunning set of beautiful white fur was seen in the collection as hints of dalmatian print were seen. a wide range of looks was seen & structured tailoring was a headlining element of the collection. the vibrant tones that opened the collection simmered as the close focused on a monochromatic color palette which seemingly referenced a prelude to what we will see for the next season. i love the collection & applaud the work of christopher bailey, immensely. topping off greatness, jourdan also closed. superb, one of the best this fall.

imagesource | vogue.uk