Tag: burberry prorsum

SPRING MENSWEAR: BURBERRY PRORSUM

LONDON – gradually, i have approached show season with hesitation. in seasons past i have approached collection reviews thinking in a way that would demand my content to be produced like a machine. in the process of this mechanical demands i put on myself, i would often experience burn out. these days, i am much more selective with collections i speak about & feel that certain labels have a connection to the structure which has created the framework of what my site has become. i feel as though recent content has been much more personal for me, burberry being a label i tend to associate- due to the fact that we, yes i do mean you & i, were among the first news outlet in history to live stream the burberry fashion show live from london. this season, burberry took me aback. i have loved the past few collections from them in both menswear & womenswear, this season caused me to look with new eyes. i generally regard christopher bailey as a design genius. he understands where burberry falls in terms of brand heritage & understands how best the brand can evolve in order to usher in a new era. this new era allows the dominance of the british label to expand each season & this spring, bailey allows thought to become even more elevated. while i felt the collection lacked cohesion, i did notice an attempt to contrast. from high to low, the collection was one of extremes. the saturated, dulled tones to the hyper-electric outerwear- it certainly kept you alert, wondering what would come onto the catwalk next. though thrilling, it was odd. it was the kind of failed expectation that made me want to close the collection & wait for next season.

while i enjoyed the aspects of high & low throughout, i felt that nothing went together. the order & styling in which the collection was sequenced didn’t make sense- it was all over the place. the metallic pieces are sure to be a hit at retail & the earth tones were beautifully done but those horrid prints seemed to resemble bacteria. the dulled tones only looked more dull matched with the metallic footwear. while consumers don’t typically aim to rock full runway looks, the collection will no doubt sell as many burberry collections of recent day. the use of metallic, though beautiful singularly, seems extra or in some areas unnecessary- it totally disrupts cohesion among the other pieces. the expected genius of bailey was seemingly wasted here, the attempts at innovation  fell flat, not because they were in fact flat but because other elements that were over the top blurred the greatness of the collections own subtlety. overall, the familiar military influence, which is rooted in burberry’s own heritage was present, but the collection lacked a storyline. which is what i look for during show seasons- the best collections tell a story & this season, i had trouble following along. [source]

FALL MENSWEAR: BURBERRY PRORSUM

 

MILAN –  as the leading british label of the moment, burberry has dominated for the past few seasons & i’ve definitely developed an emotional attachment to them since my live stream a few seasons back. generally, i approach menswear during show season with a slight hesitation. i know what i can expect, considering the number of season’s i’ve taken more of an active interest. i often talk about these requirements or limitations that exist in menswear & each season those limitations become more & more clear to me. in comparison to womenswear, most labels can’t even extend the level of creativity that their women’s collections can. for men, it’s the coats, the hats, blah, blah, blah. but beyond my assumption of the blah came a pleasant surprise in the form of burberry’s latest fall menswear collection. a sensible remixed set of the classics was presented all while allowing a feeling of new to be represented.

i consider what i respond to pretty simple; i like certain colors & am generally more minimal when it comes to structure or silhouette. to me, style shouldn’t be complicated, im very much about effortlessness. so, naturally, i look for those things in a collection. i look for beauty, inspired concepts & thoughtful details. i respond to things that are clean & classic with a touch of modernization & all those elements were represented, this season, in the latest burberry men’s collection. given the weather conditions in burberry’s base of london, their collections have a deep rooted history in the creation of the rain or trench coat. the show began with the sound of rainfall as the first look was a belted trench which had umbrella’s accompanying the models on the catwalk. it was all very straight forward, crisp & sharply tailored at the front end of the runway sequence. as the expected slim fit trousers, newsboy caps & three piece suits made their expected cameos in the expected tones of black, white & grey with little to no contrast of other more vibrant tones. most appealing to me in this collection was the grey pieces, the use of wool & more tamed usage of studs. the burberry label has been more edgy in their use of studs in the last two seasons & im glad to see that this concept or design addition is slowly dying down, being used in more controlled, more subtle forms. studded gloves, umbrellas & laptop bags were thoughtfully included into the collection. multi-colored patterns & stripes accented classical pieces of knitwear & trench coats- elevating the sense of new to the otherwise typical collection.

those same modern palette notes on the collections accessories & leather bags were seen as the use of color seemed to be used much more freely as the collection drew closer & closer to it’s end. the color palette grew more & more beautifully, rich & deep as velvet looks walked alongside leather coats, next to contrasted tones of teal, maroon & mustard yellow. the collection seemed to appeal more & more to the younger demographic toward it’s close as there was a larger presence of flash, vibrance & exotic detail. diamond quilted coats in militant greens & brown fur collars skated on the runway alongside stoned faces of bejeweled foxes, which appeared on dress shirts & sweaters. while i’ve expressed my hatred of velvet, this collections use of it was sophisticated & beautiful as oppose to it being hideous or camp, which is how i’ve seen it used by other designers in the past. at the close, the familiar sound of rainfall drummed along the runway through the sound system as the lights were dimmed to allow a holographic image of rain to be projected. following the projection of rainfall, the house lights were again signaled on & the cast of models did their final walk with opened umbrellas. overall, christopher bailey is an outstanding talent at burberry who has allow the company & historical label to dominate in the high end arena through skillful execution & modern ideas. as popular or played as the burberry label has become in recent years, i value bailey’s creative approach & value his skill set as a director. superb collection & a true reworking of classic items that will never, ever go out of style. one of my favorite men’s collection this fall, no doubt.

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: BURBERRY PRORSUM

LONDON – in the lane of what we seen from jason wu; london’s crown jewel, burberry prorsum continues down a path of greatness for the pre-season. while the collection is nothing spectacular in contrast to the last few seasons we’ve seen from the label under the creative direction of christopher bailey; an arsenal of coats is presented once more. modeled by burberry model fave, cara delevingne of DNA, the collection is highly commendable as a poignant mark of consistency on behalf of burberry in today’s modern market. thoughtful styling & placement of accessories lend a large amount of force to the labels growing value as sleek silhouettes play their part. much like wu, all the fall bases are covered- coats, dresses & gowns, if needed, within the set.

use of fur, suede on the collections footwear & a slew of belted waists are seen as i applaud yet another outstanding collection of the pre-season. of the many other collections i’ve seen & opted not to cover, burberry is of honorable mention due to the fact that they never half ass anything. from their campaigns, to the collections, runway shows & even lookbook images- every inch is drenched in style, sharp execution & elegance. other collections present six piece pre-fall sets & expect the retail market to swell with enthusiasm- i don’t think so. burberry reminds us that, even in the pre-season, they are still coming for your ass in more ways than one. strong collection, completely appealing to not only my personal taste, but in the taste of works best with their existing clientele while slightly nudging them into a more progressive lane of style. christopher bailey is oh, so ill. [source]

fall collections, london: burberry prorsum

as one of the most anticipated collections of london fashion week, the FW11 burberry prorsum collection took bold tones & british style signatures to the next level. in a surprise twist, one of our favorite faces, ms. jourdan dunn opened the show to a roaring start in a bold orange coat, toting burberry’s signature plaid print that was incorporated into an orange handbag. the london based design label has rapidly pronounced it’s strengths & appreciation for their british heritage. in casting dunn, who is of british nationality herself, that move alone is a large statement from the label who has been a leader in fashion, not just in london, but internationally. while focusing on mod styles that slightly reference 60’s style, structure was seen in the collections coats while bold tones allowed a modernized feel throughout. beautiful plaids were seen alongside vibrant reds, orange, blue & yellow while sleek lines rules the collection this season. a stunning set of beautiful white fur was seen in the collection as hints of dalmatian print were seen. a wide range of looks was seen & structured tailoring was a headlining element of the collection. the vibrant tones that opened the collection simmered as the close focused on a monochromatic color palette which seemingly referenced a prelude to what we will see for the next season. i love the collection & applaud the work of christopher bailey, immensely. topping off greatness, jourdan also closed. superb, one of the best this fall.

imagesource | vogue.uk

jourdan dunn + sacha m’baye for burberry prorsum, spring

shot by mario testino, jourdan dunn + sacha m’baye appear for a this campaign cameo for burberry prorsum’s spring collection. during the FW11 menswear show season, i had inquired about the male model seen for runway look no. 16 at the dolce show & look at who pops up in the burberry SS11 campaign- yes, sacha. as i had made a conscious decision to  opt out of posting the previously released burberry campaign images, i am very put off by the segregation that is seen in the campaign. as if black & white models couldn’t be photographed together the campaign showcases a release of separate sets this season. i am not clear what message they are looking to broadcast. as two of my favorite model faces in fashion, im very excited for the spot no less. represented by women model management, jourdan dunn has remained a strong force in her return to the runway last year & the new year looks like the same powerful force; represented by select london, sacha’s star is rapidly rising.

imagesource | tfs

runway video: burberry prorsum menswear, fall

video: the spring burberry prorsum campaign