Tag: collection review

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

LONDON – under the creative directi0n of alistair carr, influences of his balenciaga design background are evident. previous to his work as design director at pringle of scotland, carr assisted nicholas ghesquière for 4 years at balenciaga. seen through use of silhouette, choice in textile & use of color; the collection is definitely a modern twist for the scottish label. in contrast to collections of the past from pringle of scotland, i find it completely refreshing that this sense of new is being seen as the label itself has been in existence since 1815. a brand better known for their knitwear, the collection seen here capitalized on innovative re-workings of classical fall looks. in palette, there was a good balance of essential fall tones while a few surprises in design. commendably the collection managed to balance of number of aspects that kept things young yet classic.

one aspect of design that i admire of designers is their approach in designing for certain ages. within this collection, an incredibly wide range of consumers will definitely be drawn in. here exists sophistication for the young & modern freshness for the more mature. with more established labels, there is a certain degree of style that needs to be protected; for a label as widely developed as pringle of scotland, i believe that this motion to boss up as a modern label will allow them even greater advantages as a competitor in the high end market. by opting to take someone who has the design skill from a house like balenciaga- that move in itself is proof that some form of modernization is not only expected, but needed. those modern elements were seen, etched into every single aspect of the collection when looking both closely & at a distance. i loved the attention to silhouette; the wide range of anatomical shapes that were seen & almost outlined the body- so as to not disrupt personal style, rather enhance it. so sick. when posting a couple of my favorite looks from the collection, one spectator gushed about the collection footwear. i thought that element to be very calculated & smart- considering that pringle of scotland is still, somewhat, of a rookie having only begun producing luxury accessories since 2007. after the resignation of pringle’s previous director, claire wright keller, whom is now at the helm creative director at chloé; i had my reservations about the direction that the label would take. considering how i’d grown fond of keller’s design direction & it’s classical appeal; i am even more enthusiastic about this new, revitalized style sensibility from carr.

the collection has it’s share of structure but provides beautiful details & design notes that are hidden throughout. in an unexpected feat, the collection goes from architectural dresses to complex knitwear, perfectly. with the wide array of elements that are developed in this set, it’s all thoughtfully combined & meticulously executed. i loved the side-button cardigan number a lot; admiring the fact that even some of the most classic pieces weren’t left untouched; without remix. the palette was never dull as deep marooned tones were matched to mustard yellows & golden honey browns. beautiful navy was contrasted with crisp drops of teal, while red & orange led us to speckles of print. that print seemed to ignite at the close of the collection, which seen more contrasts of orange eruppted in a set of volcanic printed looks. as the third collection to be produced under the direction of alistair, i am eagerly anticipating next seasons collection & applaud this as a pre-season effort. will be keeping an eye out on reports of revenue increase onward through the new year as well. strong collection & well developed aspects of modernization to a classic brand. [source]

spring collections, tokyo: araisara

modernized & sleek, the SS12 araisara collection presented for japan fashion week was one of refined design. easily, i could see this collection fitting into the american market & even internationally in european regions like milan & paris. a strict palette with slight cameos of bold color were seen as the collection provided a commercialized sense of style for japanese consumers. i loved that the runway show was dark & seemingly drenched in laquer- it elevated the level of modernization that was reflected upon through design with the clothes. architecturally strong lines ruled the collection & progressive construction headlined. i loved the footwear in the collection & the way that color was lightly used. use of sheer textiles was noticeable & though nothing spectacular at first glance; this collection lives through details. strong collection, beautiful vision & progressive design.

imagesource | wwd

spring collections, tokyo: yoshio kubo

after seeing the ato menswear collection, my love for men’s style in the context of japanese fashion design started to heat up. upon seeing the yoshio kubo, suddenly my own love for clean lines & style subtlety was being questioned. through design experimentation, the collection hosted a range of prints while the male models walked the runway with exposed black roots & platinum dipped tips- a style i have long loved. overall, the collection presented a powerful set of menswear design that found no need to reference current trend- it was almost an act of style deviation. packed into the collection was a range of style inspirations that i have seen spewed all over the world- the collection is truly an inspired one. it was almost like an art of the unconventional. the collection of beautifully styled chaos struck a strong chord with me, being that clean lines were still represented but then they were contrasted with something super outlandish. it was a perfect composition of male style & a vivid mind shift of how i define style. this is what design represents for me- it’s that moment when, suddenly, you start to re-evaluation your own style, thinking; “i would wear that”. in those moments that’s when you evolve- as a style enthusiast & as an individual.

imagesource | wwd

spring collections, tokyo: johan ku

separated from the expected palette notes of the spring, the SS12 collection presented in the harajuku quest hall in tokyo is one of interesting concepts & imaginative knits. the johan ku collection presented relaxed silhouettes & what seemed to appear as undone knitwear. slim fit pants were presented alongside dual-silhouetted garments as a true challenge of design was confronted. incredibly forward thinking in creating an opposition with skirts/pants- definitely concepts that exist on the outer limits in this collection. while more controlled in some areas, there was a daring design approach in this collection, which i admire. strong vision & cohesive vision throughout; it’s almost as if they intended to push your thoughts on style but to do so ever so slightly. great collection of truly innovative design. love the knitwear, completely.

imagesource | wwd

spring collections, tokyo: ato menswear

menswear, for me should be effortless. i feel as though men have much more of a pre-established style structure that rarely changes each season. when talking change, im not talking shorts vs. pants or t-shirts vs. coats- im talking true change. generally, womenswear has a stronger reputation to push the envelope or challenge our use of print, cut & shape. the ato SS12 menswear collection plays up the militant structure of uniforms beautifully. in some cases, i look to menswear with a sense of disinterest considering that it’s the same lines, same shapes & predictable palettes. that was not the case with this collection. strict & clean, the collection did host a few womenswear looks but a range of standard designs seemed to be presented with a strong sense of design while a faultless palette. the attention to tailoring & the mindful relaxation of fit in other areas was incredibly well balanced. overall, i loved this collection for it’s strength in simplicity; unbreakable lines & classic yet modern style. obsessed with this collection, in every way, shape & form. completely. amazing execution & clear vision.

imagesource | wwd

spring collections, tokyo: jenny fax

growing up, i was intensely interested in japanese anime. following the stateside release of sailor moon, i began to research other anime characters & became obsessed with magic knight rayearth. the elements of hyper-beauty that is projected through this type of animation amazed me & the stylized glimpses of japan that i seen only made it that much more interesting. as i got older, i became more aware of the thin line that had separated anime & adult entertainment; which ruptured my perception of the exaggerated beauty. i slowly departed from it, finding myself more interested & more saturated in my other interests, never really being interested in american animation outside of the world of disney. those elements i was once interested in were threaded in some of the elements of the SS12 jenny fax collection. the use of animated prints is the obvious reference of japanese animation but so is the child-like styling & design references. oversized bows & exaggerated silhouettes blur the lines of adolescence & adult. small aspects of design from the 1980’s & 70’s are visible as school girl uniforms, prom queens & rock stars are seen on the runway in the wide ranged set of looks, similar to those fabulous latest collections one can find at teranicouture.com/collection/prom-dresses-2017/. with a varied palette of red, navy, yellow & white- the collection is a solid set of design that is easily & distinctively japan. strong direction & undeniable efforts of execution.

imagesource | wwd

spring collections, tokyo: nocturne #22 in c sharp minor op. posth

in addition to being one of the most interesting names for a collection i’ve encountered in a while, nocturne #22 in C sharp minor op. posth, continued with interesting concepts through style for their spring collection. layering seemed to take the largest presence on the runway for nocturne #22 this season. variations of men’s dress shirts were sculpted into female silhouettes as the garments themselves were made to look unfinished, a decision which actually allowed the clothes to have a stronger presence. from look to look, i was incredibly inspired by the pants in the collection- from the paper waist style to the relaxed fits as well. few looks of menswear also made a cameo during the runway show, which used stripes & lace as design accents for the collection. love the direction they took & their use of black was a clear deviation from what’s expected of spring.

imagesource | wwd