Tag: french womenswear

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: CHLOÉ

PARIS – chloé has been one interesting label for me to watch. as the label that provided both stella mccartney & phoebe philo a platform for design together, the same aesthetic the two have applied to the label is still heavily intertwined into their collections. fresh off my review of celiné’s pre-fall collection, i thought it necessary to follow-up with chloé, considering that clare waight keller is now in place as the label’s creative director. previously of pringle of scotland, clare waight keller is one designer that has caught my eye. through her work with the british based, scottish established, pringle of scotland; i became much more familiar with her design eye & attention to clean lines. with a design resume that includes work for some of the finest names in the business, keller’s killer skills have been shaped & accentuated by her past work with american empire lines calvin klein & ralph lauren, in addition to her work with tom ford in 2000. this lead clare to her stint at pringle in 2005, which resulted in award-winning work, which earned her the scottish cashmere designer of the year award.

now in her new post at chloé, i was surprised & excited to see that hannah macgibbon was no longer in place & clare would be her replacement. familiar with clare’s refined taste & knowing the modernized reputation of designers who’ve worked at chloé, my eyes shift toward the french based womenswear to see how clare would kill her latest opportunity. having gotten press for being open about looking to blogs & understanding the value of her new post at chloé, i’ve come to admire clare as a designer who has her ear to the street- which i respect on a whole other level. it’s important, as it is with any artist, to allow your interests & inspirations to remain fresh, you have to keep things young & new- especially as a fashion designer. credited for completely reinventing the pringle of scotland label during her six year tenure, i feel like clare is the perfect fit for chloé. debuting her first collection, for the summer/spring 2012 season; this season, keller demonstrates her ability to create & direct with a fresh aesthetic & an eternally chic sense of palette.

this sesaon, with this collection, clare allows silhouettes played a large role. in the pre-season, im always looking to see what was used from the previous collection & what was introduced as a new concept. i like the idea of a pre-season set, always looking for ways design talents have used the opportunity to segue or quickly pacify collections. the approach of each designer shows their committment to good design & value of clientele. clare’s approach to the pre-season is one of the more developed of the pre-fall & i’ve only dedicated time to labels who’ve, in some way, expressed this dedication through what i measure as good quality. i loved the collections use of color, the milky tones were both feminine while still being sophisticated. beautiful use of twill, classic use of plaid & cutesy use of powedered tones were all seen in the collection. being drawn to aspects of design that are simplified & modern, this collection is one of my favorites of the pre-season. cannot wait to see what clare & chloé will unveil for the FW13 show season in paris, this month. clare appears to be the perfect fit for the french label. now let’s see that SS12 campaign. [source]

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: CÉLINE

PARIS – very few collections in fashion possess the true form of power in trendsetting. while most labels create collections heavily inspired by the past, not many are able to transcend into actual, original design. fully considering that nothing on this planet is new or completely original, i find that phoebe philo is one of those rare cases. though philo herself might’ve been inspired by some aspect of the past or other design references, her thought process, in what we can see as a final result on the runways, is flawlessly conceptualized & heartbreaking produced. heartbreaking only for her high fashion competition, with whom she slays each & every season, yes, even in the pre-season. 

it’s not secret that my heart lies with design structure, cleanliness of silhouette & a controlled palette with minimal disruption of wild print or ostentatious logos. in my evolved interest of style, thing have consciously gotten more & more simple. of course, during show season, i look to certain collections that adhere to my obsession & that produce it with greatness. céline is the ringleader of that designer grouping for me. while other collections go for style hysteria with crazy florals & logoed handbags, céline plays the field with the low key cool reminiscent of aaliyah. its that effortlessness that continues to have me in convulsions with each collection presented. this season, philo stays in that lane of minimalism while producing elongated silhouettes suitable for the fall season. coats are a consistent statement on the runway for fall & transition seasons, or pre-season collections. while other labels produced collections dipped in a vivid teal, philo has opted to add a royal blue to her palette, a move that has separated her once more. contrasted bouts of royal blue float stylishly alongside shades of navy, flashes of brown & a bit of metallic undertones with the usual white, black & grey palette cameos.

hands down, the most surprising element of the collection, for me- was the use of fur. slight inclusions of fur were seen as the collection sequence graduated but look 19 had you floored. the model was completely drapped in a showstopping, full length fur coat that was paired with a coinciding print-pant. in an attempt to avoid any form of overkill, the look was paired with a simple heel, a white belt which cinched the waist & a white leather magazine clutch. surprised, even when one nod of drama is seen from céline & again, my hands are raised to the sky for the creative direction of phoebe philo. a hero in my heart, i am always thrilled & inspired to see what she’s putting on the runway or, a look book. as a clear indication that philo is coming for blood this fall, im sure that her FW13 collection will go just as hard as this set. use of print was seen in a much more artistic form toward the back-end, which fit well alongside the collections use of fur & balanced out the intentionally minimalistic approach. additionally, the collection hosted a murderous set of accessories that will further allow the label to dominate in the accessories market, as versions of céline’s beloved handbags appeared supersized. it seemed as though the collection took pre-existing styles from their recent season & magnified them- pants were longer, bags were bigger & everything was better. overall, the collection poises a winning entry to the pre-season, which will act as a style appetizer to show season which is looming nearer & nearer with each hour. an incredibly dope set of design & commendable effort from philo & the céline team. love, love, love the collection & absolutely cannot wait for the fall show season. [source]

collection images: emanuel ungaro, resort

filled to the brim with floral prints, the emanuel ungaro label presents their 2012 resort collection & is seemingly hitting their design stride. established in 1973, originally as a menswear collection; ungaro the designer retired in 2005 & sold the label for a reported $84 million. in the path following his retirement in 2005, the ungaro label has faced bad press & a doubted presence in high fashion. continuing on a path set & seen on the runway last season in paris- there seems to be a greater amount of development in aesthetics & this could be a flourishing result in the retail market. while i feel as though more versatility could’ve been seen, i applaud the consistency from look to look. a palette heavily drenched in yellow, the collection is one of classically modern silhouettes & feminine chic. the injection of more earth tones might be an indication of what we’ll see during show season. im looking forward to seeing what designs they will present in paris in a few months.

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runway video: yves saint laurent fall prêt-à-porter

collection images: givenchy, pre-fall

layered coats & deep earth tones were presented for the pre-fall collection for the house of givenchy. leather was matched to ethereal use of lavender sheers, sharply tailored pants & beatuiful footwear. ostrich feathers accented futuristic silhouettes & long length skirts & gowns that were additionally layered by the collections coats that added a greater feeling of androgyny amidst all the feminine charm of the collection. a bit of religious iconography is seen in the collection, particularly with the skirts that were almost appear as though they were adapted from traditional garb worn by priests & nuns. fur lined hoods were seen on the multi-layered trench & parka designs while accessories also shared the spotlight for this set. i love the downtown backdrop seen in the images & am completely inspired by the fade out of day to night from start to finish for the collection images. the house of givenchy continues to dominate as one of the leading fashion houses in the world of high end fashion.

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collection images: céline, pre-fall

clean design lines seem to be a mainstay for the céline collections, under the direction of phoebe philo. with the pre-fall set, we see architectual influence combined with color blocking & sleek design that is complimented through leather & animal print. furthermore, the céline womenswear collections are my favorite each season. while creating minimal fashion, it’s inspiring to see what variation philo creates from summer to fall. the coats in this collection are particularly stunning; the structure of design is thrilling & the palette is unexpected. metallic accents & foxtails are seen in the set as well, adding to the unexpected chic that céline offers every season. while im not a huge fan of the blue pieces; the neutral & grey pieces of the collection, along with the plaid designs are beautifully constructed & incredibly stylish. undeniably solid direction.

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collection images: lanvin, pre-fall

after an enormously successful venture with fast fashion retailer, H&M, lanvin goes on to conquer the world of high end fashion in presenting their questionable pre-fall collection. while the images themselves look like pieces from the H&M campaign, i am starting to feel that lanvin is slowly becoming a one note in design. while each of the last few seasons have been acclaimed & are strongly recognizable; are these cuts, concepts & silhouettes all that we will see from albert elbaz during his reign at the house of lanvin? it’s the same collection with a slightly altered palette & im hoping that reinvention will headline the collection that will debut on the runways of paris fashion week, come february. a valid attempt, but in this case, im not impressed. the questionable angles & use of what appear to be animal props annoyingly distract from the collection.

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