restrained & simplified, the SS11 haute couture collection presented by the house of valentino was an interesting one to say the least. under the creative direction of maria grazia chiuri and pier paolo piccioli, a redefinition of the milan headquartered fashion house has been presented each season, defying expectation & ultimately keeping us guessing as a fashion audience. as an iconic association with the house of valentino, use of red is almost a requirement of some form & here slightly modified uses were seen. the world of haute couture thrives in wild imagination & extreme, over the top glamour- couture clients go for the drama. this season, a controlled intensity almost sizzles at the root, so as to no jolt you in your seat like other collections that were presented this season; more specifically the classical glamour of dior, the romanticism of elie saab & the theatricality of gaultier. a valued opportunity is presented to fashion houses during couture season, you’re given a chance to think outside of the box, to push the limitations of whats considered wearable & here, those risks were not recognize or entertained at all. as a lover of all things simple, i enjoyed the collection- it’s clean lines & soft details allow you to want to take a closer look while you’re gently rocked by the lullaby of textiles that blew across the runway. much like any other lullaby, you can easily fall asleep. those same emotions are felt for this collection. i had expected a bold concept or risk to be taken, like seasons past but it seems as though the creative reigns of the house are being pulled back too far. nothing distinguishes this collection, clearly, from what we see from the house for their ready-to-wear collection, despite the fact that what is seen here is beautiful. soft details amount to redundancy in contrast to the other fashion houses of the season. that & still, i like the collection enough to appreciate & recognize it’s beauty; i also fully recognize the importance & possibility to stretch beyond that.
imagesource | style
the giorgio armani collection stayed in line with their usual direction, providing handsome looks for men for the FW11 show season in milan. a dark palette of grey, blue & black were combined with a few drops of orange, pink & purple for contrast. though the collection is cohesive, some of the attempts at providing relativity to the current seasonal trends seem forced & dully injected into the stone faced concepts of the set. i like a few of the pieces because they are hardcore elements of armani signatures, which in many ways can come off as redundant or revisited. a strong direction outside of the poor choice in contrasted tones at the mid-section of the collection. the armani label continues to stay in their own lane, creativitely & im sure a stunning campaign will be shot with a gorgeous male model to make this seem like more than it appears on the runway.
unexpectedly taking a break from stiff sophistication & hard-edged, sleek, glamour- the FW11 emporio armani collection was surprisingly more rugged. while refined style was still greatly represented, i admire the shift in direction for the label , whom i’ve described as ‘out of the loop’ in the past. a rich palette of navy, maroon with shades of neutral & blue were threaded inspiringly throughout the collection; while not distracting from the clothes. that said, while i do respect the shift in direction- i would’ve loved to see an alliance of current trends of bold color combined with classic concepts- here, the armani label stays in line with their own vision, while upgrading slightly in direction; but still come up short in choosing to lead a path all their own as oppose to falling in line. while leading the way is important & respected, it’s also important to do so with unbridled creativity.
imagesource | gq