Tag: jason wu


11. BALENCIAGA with alexander wang now in place, the real show begins. from the first stunning showing of balenciaga, to this resort collection- you see a thorough understanding of what the house of balenciaga is at the core. while i admit my own hesitation, i really am blown away at how seamless the transition from ghesquiere to wang has shown itself. while the aesthetic of this collection is wang in many forms, the fluid lines are completely balenciaga. and not just as a house, but as cristobal- who founded the house in 1914. even the backdrop for the collection is ultra modern and cool with the evident presence of wang. one aspect of look books that makes them feel a bit one dimension is the inability to see all angle of the pieces- but the multiple video screens alters that hindrance completely. genius! as the house of balenciaga carefully crafts a re-direction while under wang, it seems as though a fitting mind was cast. i will say though, keeping ghesquiere’s recent interviews about creative restraints at the house of baleciaga are still very much on my mind. that said, wang is of the new school where the demands of designing are understood. as fashion continues to spiral unward, it true creatives for a loop. as if executing your own vision isn’t pressure enough, whole industry’s and executives are holding onto your every word, ready to reject at a moments notice. with two collections under his belt and another on it’s way come september, wang appears to be getting into the groove rather nicely. i think it will be interesting to see how accessories are developed under wang, as the house has remained true to it’s fashion apparel direction more in the past several years. accessories are a powerful market in global retail and wang understands this all too well with his own namesake line which has all the fly girls fleeing to the marble. my top favorite for the resort 2014 season.

22. JASON WU in the crop of designers that were dubbed as the new asian, alexander wang along with jason wu continue to dominate through sophistication and modern vision. even during the resort pre-season, the wu label is still taking every effort to expand through variations of style that separate the major seasons from the pre. i love the vacation feel of this collection and even alongside other collections from this resort season, the design elements and choices made are completely fresh. it’s young and effortless- which is what resort is all about. stream lined and minimal where needed, wu understands his own design voice as well as his ability to balance the drama with the undercurrent. it has become stronger and stronger season by season, as he now defends what american fashion is- influenced. influenced in that, so many elements play a role. you see that there is no distinction as what is seen for other fashion capitals like paris or milan. american fashion has now evolved through the vision of designers like jason wu, and now what is represented is a full scope of design sensibility that is much more suited for the melting pot that is not only the new york fashion scene, but the american fashion scene. while there manages to be some stragglers within the new york fashion capital that show, wu is one designer that has take the challenge by the horns. dressing such powerful figures like michelle obama almost worked against him during the beginning stages, as his work started to feel one dimensional. that space of struggle is over, because now what is left is multi-dimension.

33. 3.1 PHILIP LIM the deconstruction of the female silhouette is becoming much more relaxed with each season, as seen in this collection. there appears to be a greater alliance of androgyny in high fashion, which will eventually segue into the mass market. even as a culture, the line of masculinity and femininity are completely blurred. people are seeming to grasp the concept of clothes being a mask. while this concept can serve for interesting choices or representation, there are always those few uses that fuck shit up. color blocked, sharp and forward in style nature- the collections that lim produces are some of my favorites in both menswear and womenswear all together. while i love drama, i think lim has an effortless ability to represent modernity and function in a way that allows high fashion to merge with function. this idea is absolutely important for our modern times- everything is a hybrid. precise and clean is what this collection is for me; it provides a strong visual that is pixel perfect for fashion editorial. this appears to be fashion of the future in my mind, which is why i’ve loved lim’s work. it’s progressive but not to the point where it isolates the present. well balanced, though im not one for metallics, i thought it was done in the right way here. as he took home the CFDA award for accessories this year, lim’s bags also made a slight cameo in the collection now appearing in backpack form, which allows his pashli bag greater dimension and versatility. much like wu and wang, lim too has been referred to as new asian, here in america on the fashion scene and these three have remained consistent through growth both in business and design.

44. BARBARA BUI now it may be that anais mali is the model in the collection look book, but hey- a great model can very well sell a collection to the masses. here, either anais or bui sold me. the selection of collections i’ve opted to write about are more aligned with my own personal taste level. i understand that these lines, silhouettes and looks aren’t suitable for all consumers, but still- the point of this space is to create and identify my taste level as jeremy dante. this collection did that for me. while some collections were minimal, they felt too minimal and were otherwise categorized as boring in my own mind. but here there was a thoughtful simplicity, in fact, these collections i’ve selected as my top five for the resort season share that level of simplicity. barbara bui’s first collection was shown in 1987, after bui decided that she would leave a literary education for the world of high fashion. along the lines of hybridity much like wu, wang or lim- bui often combines asian and western ideas. she cites her design philosophy as laid back elegance and this resort collection hosts those ideals perfectly. with her design philosophy also citing rock energy and ultra feminine sensitivity, this collection plays up to the idea of masculinity. the confidence, in your face type of energy that is often associated with masculinity. beyond anything, it’s smart design that is mindful of forward thinking and strong style. i love the variation of images throughout the look book, seeing as most labels stick with studio images. the bui label is a contender this season as one of the stronger collections.

55. THEYSKEN’S THEORY the design approach to olivier theysken’s style at theory is something i’ve been excited about for a while now. there is an understated presence that he holds with complete calm and control. what’s particularly powerful about his design approach is the concept of theme. i will always regard olivier’s time at nina ricci as a real coming out- his vision at that house was too much for them to handle. more often then probably even necessary, i mention his work at nina ricci because it was such a fantastical moment in fashion. to see that olivier’s work now exists with theory is interesting, because it almost feels subdued or restricted. this resort collection was created with the idea of essentials in mind. every look was intended to host some kind of essential and for the most part that was done. what i love about theysken’s theory is that it’s always a collection that i can come to and find greater things about. olivier is a very foward thinker when it comes to design and he’s often seeing something that’s much more theoretical of style. it’s intellectuality that allows his work to exist beyond simple design or style. though at the lower end of this pre-season’s list, i do feel that this collection is a true representation of where fashion is, as well as where it’s going. it’s strong but soft, masculine and feminine- quiet and loud. the one common resonance of all five collections in my mind is hybridity. while i’ve take time to stray away from runway in an effort to better dissect style as it relates to culture, one element that will tie everything together here is the evidence or influence of ideas merging. that merging is what makes up our culture, especially here in america. all five collections also represent america, whether it’s alexander wang coming from new york to conquer paris with balenciaga or lim and wu dressing new american females across the nation- all collections are american through their hybridity. this merge is the future, it’s where we are and a large piece of where we’re going.

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debuting his first campaign- ever; jason wu reiterates the same sophistication felt in his womenswear designs into this spring advertisments. a stunning first in every sense of the meaning, the campaign was shot by willy vanderperre with styling by joe mckenna. starring julia frauche of next models ny, the campaign is a vivid depiction of the collection & boasts a few key looks from the ultra-feminine collection. inspired by street artist, KAWS, wu actually collaborated with the graffiti artist to develop the floral print seen in the first image. though rather similar to other work by vanderperre, the collection is beautifully shot as the right amount of ease & minimalism is represented significantly, in each image.

the overall image that wu has communicated to the masses through his highly publicized design nuances has been extremely sophisticated in my mind. now a bonafide fashion all-star, to think; wu was relatively unknown when suddenly his name was splashed across every major newspaper for his dress design worn by first lady, michelle obama. after that dress appeared, his collection strolled the runway & i was unimpressed. over the course of the several last seasons, wu has managed to create a branding presence & design signature that is both modern & mature while not isolating the middle aged or the girlies in their  lower to mid-twenties. i like that wu is just now beginning to enter the campaign arena, he has taken a significant amount of time to really focus on who he is as a designer, which is greatly respect. serving the sense of glamour that i look for in high fashion, wu proves that he is now entering the next level. with the success of his target line collaboration being visible on the barren racks at the thousands of retail locations nationwide, im very excited to see what wu will cook up for the fall show season in new york. amidst the hundreds of dulled american fashion designers, wu preserves his freshness quite well.

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NEW YORK – in an effort to release myself from the feeling of entrapment amidst all of this high fashion bullshit; the nature of collection reviews will be going slightly different. only dedicating myself to shit i absolutely love, the 2012 pre-fall collection presented by jason wu fall under that category. after underwhelming collections by elie tahari, DKNY, chanel, oscar de la renta, carolina herrera & michael kors- the jason wu collection struck me dead. while some collections have had outstanding looks, overall, as a collection the jason wu pre-fall set, thus far, takes the cake. inspired by illustrator, charley harper & the maharaja, the collection takes on a beautiful fall palette. most outstanding was the use of green within this collection’s palette. wide ranged, stylistically, the collection takes everything associated with fall & adds wu’s magical design touch in a perfect way. jewel tones were given added depth in the collection as the set closed with a dramatic grouping of gowns. the collection could not have been more beautiful; clean lines, beautiful jackets, super sick use of fur & well tailored pant looks. strong execution, expert style brought to life. considering how young of a design wu is, his approach to high fashion & fine design has beautifully evolved in front of our very eyes. probably one of my favorite designers in the american market. standing ovation to this collection, im on my feet. [source]

spring collections twelve overview: new york

given the recent events, i’ve been a little more hesitant to post here. with the response of my last post, i really want to remain in that lane. for a long time i’ve been, in some ways, removed from what i was writing about, observing from the outside in. but this season, im gonna to make a greater effort to inject a much more personalized writing style into what is seen here. in others, much more of a selective presence will be seen. more in-depth pieces, much more discussion of what influences me will be presented as well. i do find it important to maintain a mystique & while some aspects will remain untouched, a much more thoughtful set of actions will serve as the foundation for what i am looking to represent, not as a blogger, but as a writer. i don’t feel that the title of ‘blogger’ is even large or well defined enough to hold all of what i feel i have to contribute. as the self proclaimed, face of fashion blogging- my aim was never to fit into this confined catagory of new talent but to re-emerge as how this shit should be done after seeing the lame ass approach taken by others- less creative, less original & less thoughtful than myself. keeping in mind the response i’ve been able to generate through the screen; i still don’t feel that i’ve done half of the vision i have in my mind. i will always be about beauty, art & creative transcendence- i represent a new breed.

fashion in new york city is cancerous. that shit spreads every year more & more with designers from around the globe all trying to crack the industry. it’s amazing though, one season you could be doing a presentation & the next season you’re at the lincoln center as one of the huge shows. america has always represented opportunity & in new york, especially in fashion, this is very evident. considering the expansion of the asian market & the exclusivity of the european market- new york is really the only other option for young designers. editors, stylists & miscellaneous fashion spectators will tell you- new york fashion week is pandemonium. you basically go from one location to the next sometimes across the city. im all about loving clothes & admiring design or being infatuated with glamour but that shit is tiring. even in managing your calender, when RSVP’ing it’s easy to double book a show or to miss something because you thought it was an hour later than it was actually scheduled. coordination is vital & im not talking about your outfit. all bullshit aside, the SS12 fashion season in new york brought a slew of new designers & our beloved veterans to the limelight. floral print, stunning solids & an army of style awaited in the form of runway shows & presentations. this season, i’ve decided to change up the way i cover runway. while i like looking & posting collection by collection- much like running around in the city to attend shows, yes, that shit is also tiring. by the fifth collection everything starts to look the same & the trends of the season are burned onto your brain. each fashion capital will have it’s own recap- first up, of course, is new york. in the grime of the city, florals & bold tones hit the runways, marking the direction of next spring.

so much of me has struggled with the idea of flipping the script. im always very wary about what you guys are receptive to but then i stopped & remembered one day- this is jeremydante.com! meaning, some form of personalization is allowed & in many ways accepted. watching rachel zoe re-runs today, she said, “fashion is subjective” & oddly, a text conversation with a model friend of mine in new york city seen the same line uttered, “fashion is subjective.” now, being mindful of the words we use in big & small instances- definitions are something i look at throughout the day, even if i already know the meaning of the word. i find that this constant reminding or clarification is what keeps you sharp. subjective is defined as “pertaining to or characteristic of an individual; personal; individual. existing in the mind; belonging to the thinking subect rather than to the object of thought. placing excessive emphasis on one’s own moods, attitudes, opinions”. basically, fashion is different for every person. for me, as evident through my own blog design- im receptive & most responsive to clean structure. whether we’re talking about my stack of vogue issues categorized by month or we’re talking about how i make notes for the seasonal trends- im just that way; i like order. that same discipline that is rooted to my upbringing is reflected in what i wear & define as ‘style’. now style is also subjective- the shit i think is cute you might think is ugly. but that’s fine. i’ve picked a few collections to reference for the new york recap & will provide an overview of my personal selections as well as trends.

personally, im a thorough minimalist- in every sense. my idea of personalizing something is to strip it down to it’s bare essentials. a lot of designers in america have also adapted their design approach to this concept. houses like calvin klein, philip lim, elie tahari, theysken’s theory & rachel zoe had some of the greatest minimalist influence this season. the 3.1 philip lim collection was one of my favorites in new york this season, as i loved the use of clean lines & sculpted silhouettes. in palette, the collection hosted an array of pastels which was a bit unexpected given that many other labels went for much more bold color picks. proenza schouler is another of my favorites out of new york but this season, they were slightly off. i loved the use of layering & the deconstruction of some silhouettes but all in all, i’ve loved many of their past collections much more. that said, i appreciate them changing their direction up a bit. my favorite of new york in totality for the SS12 season? theysken’s theory- without a doubt. the effortless cool of his designs, the flawless movement of the silhouettes- it was all done in a way that seemed to fit stylishly but organically as well. when looking at collections, i like to observe natural progression; considering what the designer has done in the past season & contrasting that to what he/she has done in the new season. olivier theyskens, whom is the head designer of the collection- is one of fashion’s most creative & im more than excited to see that his design genius has been well placed at theory. overall, this season was fair. nothing beyond spectacular was seen.

some ways to incorporate trend, without completely jumping shit on ship in terms of your own style; is by incorporating colors from the runway. this season, it seemed like a race of the color wheel. at the front end of the race, it seemed as though pink would be the front runner as runway shows by jason wu, badgley mischka & thakoon all showcased shades of pink. in addition, collections revealed in presentation format- jenni kayne, the gap & j. crew also included pink in their palettes. spring is often associated with color, as it mirrors much of the weather forecast. in my own observation, the runway was filled with yellow. a variety of shades was seen while i was most impressed by the use of yellow by another new york designer favorite of mine, reed krakoff. pale tones of yellow were seen as krakoff’s love for simplicity & sheer style were well represented on the runway. donna karan added yellow accessories & dresses to the trend report as did elie tahari, rodarte, derek lam & michael kors.

print was by far the biggest creative force on the runway, as many designers were able to showcase the design addition in a number of much more personalized ways. one aspect i love about show season is seeing how each designer interprets the trends. print in particular is interesting- while it can be served up in a number of ways, it can also be deconstructed or reworked season after season; moving far beyond trend. with the right design sensibility the right type or print can transcend into timeless style. iconic american designers donna karan & michael kors created more tribal collections for the spring 2012 season, as warm earth toned palettes were the base of animal print & even some forms of tie die. while most collections adapted printed design works to dresses, michael angel flipped the script & created printed coats for his collection, which i loved. jason wu & preen also took floral variations to the runway this season. surprisingly, i had expected designer thakoon to remain rested in a space of design minimalism, especially considering the effortlessness that is associated with spring. his collection was largely based on print & a bold palette was seen, to match. i appreciated the opposition, but did not find very many pieces i loved. while print can be great & provide a bit of flash in classically styled looks, it can also become easily overwhelming when paired with other pieces that appear ‘busy’. new york based label, nicole miller took another chance on the runway, continuing with her use of print that we seen slightly from her fall collection. her use of print was along the lines of thakoon, in that the collection came off as too busy or chaotic to be considered fresh. the nicole miller brand is one of intense interest for me. while i applaud the labels strategy to become much more young, the direction, season after season, seems forced. it’s almost as if the designs are adapted to the thought of what is ‘considered cool’ rather than creating something that is organically stylish, or undisputedly classic. i find that the greatest style moments often happen by accident & it’s best to not overthink it, rather than letting it flow. that said, print will be on the racks come spring 2012 & the way each designer interprets this trend, not to mention how you precieve it, is all subjective. what’s dope about print is that there are a large number of variations on the market already & come spring, an army of options will be available. fashion is what you make it; wear what you want.

in the past couple of seasons, we’ve seen 90’s style hold a greater amount of influence on the runway. this season, that same influence still seems to live on. while a large part of me is very much about simplicity, my personal taste in terms of palette can be boring in ways. while i gasped at the design simplicity & clean design lines muted in color, i was very much responsive to the amount of bold solids that hit the runway. i was incredibly inspired by the womenswear collection presented by yigal azrouël this season. beautiful use of color & the right amount of cleanliness for my inner minimalist to be satisfied, the azrouël collection served modern style vividly. the further we progress as a stylized nation, its interesting to see how silhouettes change. from body conscious to intentionally relaxed, it’s fun to see which shapes you’ll see. one aspect i’ve envied of women is the option to just throw on a dress. during hot weather, girls can throw on one piece & look stunning, while men are stuck having to pair of pants or shorts & then have to choose a top. this one piece, solid color look was powerfully present on the runway as designers like jenni kayne, derek lam & rachel roy created vibrance for the spring season. it’s always nice to add a shot of color into your wardrobe. be mindful of what colors look best on you & compliment your skin tone, hair color or even your eyes. greater style exists in greater moments of restraint- in other words, don’t over do it.

i think i’ve said it more than enough in this post alone, im naturally drawn to simplicity. this season, i noticed a lot of white but did not want to allow myself to be so immediately drawn to what feels so natural to me. i think white, of all the colors, is always stunning. it’s no secret that i go out of my way to represent models of color, considering i am of color. against brown skin, white is beyond stunning. accented by feathers or designed dramatically sleek with modern edge, white spilled onto the runways, elegantly & effortlessly chic. white is so easy because, no matter how it’s worn, it’s simple & fresh. in what i’ve described as american couture, marchesa continued to dominate with grace this season- creating a collection that was poetic, elegant & in it’s own lane in terms of trend. i don’t think it’s even necessary for people to talk about white or black as a trend- it’s there all the time, regardless of the season. i do, however, feel the need to point out elements that stand out to me & white was just one of those things this summer. granted, if we see white on the runway for the fall collections, it will be just as stunning to me. the row presented an all-white collection in hopes of presenting something ‘breath taking’ – in short, it worked. while i was impressed particularly by the effort of design that was presented, i was impressed with the direction. it showed that both mary-kate & ashley are mindful of being perceived as true designers & not simple ambassadors of trend. i always look for designers that can either represent trend well or defy it with ease. included amidst metallic footwear, white can be worn in a number of ways & is an instant show stopper every time.

taking into consideration the number of shows that i was lucky enough to receive an invite to; i was hoping that my content would be much more greatly shaped around those shows. though my attendance did not go as planned for the SS12 season, i am hoping that i will gain a better creative opportunity to cover shows the way i see in my mind; which allows you as the reader to be immersed in the creative process & not overwhelmed by scenarios of politics & impure fashion perceptions. while new york has wrapped for this season, london along with paris & milan still await. while london fashion week is in progress; i have been watching the shows & taking greater moments to soak in each designer’s vision. i will be writing about each fashion capital, as each wraps. in gratitude, i thank all of you who share this love of fashion with me & enjoy the aspects of what fashion truly is. beyond how thriving an industry it is, or whether or not we understand the financial jargon that has now enveloped it; you & i are the ones who make fashion real. there is no me without you & for that i am forever grateful.

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collection images: jason wu, resort

playful sophistication, that’s how i would describe the resort collection presented by jason wu for the 2012 pre-season. soft natural tones in egg shell were seen against more deep earth tones of brown while multi-textured headlined the collection. floral accents were seen alongside few contrasts of yellow as the collection remain cohesive in concept from start to finish. a beautifully executed collection overall; while noticeably more casual than what we’ve seen on the runway in the last two season, it seems as though wu is creatively in tune with the fact that the resort pre-season is intended for casual wardrobe.

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fall collections, new york: jason wu

stunned completely, the jason wu collection presented in new york was american couture. incredibly refined down to the last thread, jaw dropping by cast- every aspect of what a runway show should be was seen in this collection. im am beyond astounded at what was created by wu this season, given my initial hesitation at his development early on. wu’s interpretation of sophistication is at it’s peak this season as refined use of lace, metallics & feathers are seen. an all star cast including an opening daphne groenveld that followed sigrid agren, karmen pedaru, ming xi, rose cordero, hanne gaby odiele, fei fei sun, liu wen, jacquelyn jablonski, alla kostromichova, valerija kelava, lindsey wixson, anais mali, barbara plavin, frida gustavsson, joan smalls & karlie kloss with a final look worn by ms. jourdan dunn. based on design aesthetic alone, this collection is a clean cut winner- the cast drives that victory to the next level. the collections palette consisted of black & soft neutrals, with shots of blue, red, yellow & grey coats which were seen at the entrance of the set. i love, love, love this collection & am standing on my feet in applause for the vitality that is seen displayed as the vision of jason wu. new york fashion week just keeps getting better & better- this collection, is the best of the season thus far. an astounding show of sharp tailoring & gorgeous gowns.

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collection images: jason wu, pre-fall

developing further his design signature, jason wu continues to present use of sheer textiles & rich color for his collections. for the pre-season, wu stays true to what has solidified him as a strong designer in today’s modern fashion market- clean, classic design with undeniably chic & understated details. color blocking, wide legged trousers, print, ruffles, draped cocktail dresses & dramatic gowns were all presented in a broad spectrum of colors. each tone used, whether salmon pink or plum; had an added undertone of depth which allowed a feel of luxury & sophistication to be felt. im unendingly impressed by wu.

imagesource | tfs