Tag: karl lagerfeld

FASHION ON FILM: LAGERFELD CONFIDENTIAL

LC1

PARIS –  the scene opens in karl’s bedroom, which is filled with books from floor to ceiling, as stacks of magazines are seen as a four post-flourescnet bed sits amidst a mantle scattered with rings, ipods and you see karl himself shifting through drawers filled with his signature high collars. a living legend and patriarch in fashion, lagerfeld confidential gives you insight into the persona of karl largerfeld. karl is almost a modern day villain himself, inarguable influential in fashion and he spares no fucks when asked about his opinion on beauty, media and style. you get a retrospective look at both the life and career of the fashion genius, as he presents, and preps shows for chanel. along for the ride, you’re taken on a personal journey, where karl reflects on his german up brining, reveals his relationship with his parents, how he got started in fashion and even provides lessons on love. always entertaining, unforgettably unapologetic and forever entrancing, karl allows cameras to watch his every move as he travels, photographs, directs and designs. among my most favorite and one of many first fashion documentaries of my collection, you get a glimpse at the fashion high life, seeing karl’s goyard luggage being laminated for every flight he takes from paris to new york, and even see how he creates fashion sketches using chanel cosmetics. most intriguing is the scenes where male model brad kroenig is featured. industry murmurs were heard for quite some time regarding their alleged romance, and producers of the documentary pose questions of unrequited love to karl in the documentary. strategically edited, the dialogue of karl speaking on his feelings about love, are heard as scenes of a him photographing brad nude flash across your screen. among the most important forces in fashion history, this documentary is an essential selection for fashion documentary library and reveals the truth about high fashion. karl’s unabashed approach to honesty and art go unrivaled, even in today’s rapid paced world of high fashion. powerful and proven, lagerfeld exemplifies the very root of hard work and relentless vision; the documentary provides pure evidence of that. cameos from actress nicole kidman, archived footage of karl’s early days at chanel, combined with intimate creative processes at the house of chanel- it’s all very mysterious yet revealing all the same. a must see for every fashion kid, the doc reveals much of lagerfeld the artist, while leaving just enough to the imagination. disucssing everything from beauty and development to love and industry- karl keeps it all the way 100 in this fashion insight of a documentary.

purchase the documentary here via amazon.com
watch ‘lagerfeld confidential’ above

JOAN SMALLS FOR FENDI

as a favorite face of mine, joan smalls continues to redefine what it means to be a supermodel in today’s competitive world of modeling. as the new face of fendi for the fall 2012 season, smalls’ image and visibility are at an all-time high. last season, smalls was joined by model, saskia de brauw for the prestigious chanel campaign & continues to serve as a favorite of karl lagerfeld appearing for fendi. both chanel & fendi are labels under lagerfeld’s creative guidance as director and those who know anything of high fashion will agree, karl spares no opportunity to give his favorites shine. a favorite across the board, smalls is a regular in the pages of american vogue as well. with recognition from both lagerfeld and wintour, two of fashion’s most powerful figures, it’s very likely that joan could completely alter the landscape for other women of color in the lane of high fashion. with no end in sight & popularity that seems to grow with each season, magazine cover and campaign, i am extremely excited to see the success that joan has been able to attain as a model with undeniable presence. stunning as ever, though not her best, joan continues to slay.

aesthetically, the campaign is not one of fendi’s greatest, but the presence of joan is a statement in itself. i have questioned the ability of karl lagerfeld as a photographer, considering the number of tremendously talented photographers that don’t get the opportunity to work with chanel or fendi, considering his hogging of that opportunity. that said, karl- i have additional respect for you considering the number of opportunities you have allowed joan to shine. congratulations to joan and her unstoppable agent over at IMG. myself and the readers of jeremydante.com have long supported joan and applaud her striking performance.

all advertising campaign content sourced by glossynewsstand

BAPTISTE GIABICONI FOR DIOR HOMME, SPRING

under the guidance of karl lagerfeld, male model baptiste giabiconi has easily been considered one of the most visible male models of the last five years. noticeable for his presence in all things lagerfeld associated, giabiconi’s presence is one that has become quite an annoyance to me in high fashion. while im not ignoring the fact that baptiste is incredibly handsome, my irritation with most of his bookings is that they were all afforded by his affiliation with karl. a master & living legend, karl lagerfeld is the creative director of chanel as well as his own namesake line, karl lagerfeld. he is also creatively involved with fendi & is a pronounced photographer & author. through all of karl’s brand affiliations, baptiste appears, each season. this not only creates a landslide of missed opportunities for other male models who actually put in the work with brands, casting agents & photographers; but the shit that baptiste puts our in terms of product or quality of modeling skill ain’t shit compared to others in the industry. the same bland, side profile, arched eyebrow, zoolander look is seen in every shot- which explains why i felt it necessary to only include one image from this campaign. all the other images appear no different than this one. karl lagerfeld has shot campaigns for chanel, dior homme & for his other sister collections within the karl lagerfeld brand umbrella. in baptiste’s portfolio, he boasts 11 chanel campaigns, 5 fendi campaigns & 6 karl lagerfeld campaigns. even more annoying is the fact that baptiste was cast for chanel campaigns- while chanel is more widely regarded as a womenswear brand that shows occasional menswear looks that are not produced for retail.

im down to support & acknowledge male model that showcase actual range & skill through bookings, editorial cameos & dope covers but the presence of baptiste in modeling has made a joke of fashion in many ways. with the less than thrilling collections that have been presented under the chanel label, under the direction of karl lagerfeld, over the past several seasons- not to mention the spurts of disrespectful remarks that karl spews to the press about other models, labels & such; it’s clear that karl is becoming more & more careless with what ‘fashion’ is as a creative industry. while i respect his contributions to fashion, through consistent design work with majorly iconic houses; i do find it necessary to voice an opinion when it hinders opportunities for other models in the industry. even beyond that, it’s just become this ridiculous circus; you start to approach other brands with a lack of enthusiasm, considering that you can bet that baptiste will reappear with the same fucking look on his face the next season following. the same minimal campaign theme is seen in karl’s less than stellar photography skills appear as baptiste adds yet another campaign to his resume. with rumors of a relationship & rumors of an engagement between lagerfeld & baptiste circling the internet over the past few years, one has to wonder what it really takes for models with actual skill to enter fashion. i assure you, fucking for campaigns isn’t as respectable as the work that is done by other male models who represent varied skill through diversification of men through advertising imagery. beyond his poorly executed pop singing career, another venture in which baptiste has been able to take on due to his involvement with karl, and the work that karl has scored for him- what is baptiste actually contributing to fashion? my sentiments exactly. before karl was connected to baptiste, he was sitting on a men’s board collecting dust- after he meets karl? he rises through the ranks as the #1 male model in fashion. one has to question; who is more foolish? the individuals who think that it’s okay to unfairly afford individuals coveted opportunities without having to work for them? or are the individuals who falsely praise these shoe-ins & give them these rankings the real idiots? it’s these elements that push me to question fashion & how it should be perceived or communicated to the masses. whether people see it or not, the images that portray labels, the models that are cast- the designs we see each season, those have an effect on our world & the culture we live in. i would hope that individuals who’ve been in the game as long as grandpa karl, would understand that & acknowledge that with some form of responsibility. fashion does have an affect.

visit jeremydante.tumblr.com to explore
my fascination with editorial

THE SPRING CHANEL CAMPAIGN

very few designers will ever reach the status of the house of chanel. over time, the house have proved to be groundbreaking for their slashing of the pre-established, coco chanel being cited as the first to use black as a fashion color through the birth of the little black dress. now, in the modern day industry, for nearly 30 years, karl lagerfeld has successfully taken the reigns at the iconic house, keeping it in the news & on trend with the latest celebrity faces, in an effort to dominate the luxury market- which it has. the house has become known for using the biggest & brightest faces of fashion & film for various advertising. their most iconic face in history? marilyn monroe. who was the first major face for the brand, used for it’s no. 5 fragrance. along with actresses keira knightly & nicole kidman; it’s always exciting to see which faces karl will choose season after season. while very few discussions of chanel can be made without the constant use of ‘iconic’; i feel  that in recent years the house has won by default. during show season, chanel’s shows are always a hot ticket & with good reason, considering the houses place in fashion history. but for me, i’ve been consistently underwhelmed by the houses couture & ready-to-wear concepts. no doubt, largerfeld is a master showman; he delivers some of the greatest show ideas, which seemingly overshadow the clothes or act as a method of distraction considering the clothes them selves are the same, conceptually, each season. that said, my side eye of the collections simmers by the time campaigns roll around & i actually really loved the direction & casting of chanel’s summer/spring 2012 campaign.

joan smalls has been a name that has floated around the industry for a minute. while it may seem as though ms. smalls has gained overnight notoriety, rapidly garnering an undeniable presence in high fashion; most cases of ‘overnight’ anything are only the ending of a prelude of struggle, hesitation, fear & missed opportunity. for joan, her career initially took off with more commercial forms of modeling & then transformed overtime to the now high end work that she does. as one model i’ve watched very closely in the past couple of years, considering all that she has become involved with now- im stunned that joan has yet to grace the cover of any international vogue, in her own solo cover. as only the second female model to be cast for the chanel campaign, following brandi quinoñes who appeared for chanel circa 1994, joan appears beautifully alongside one of lagerfeld’s faves, saskia de brauw. saskia has proven to be a favorite of karl’s, infamously he’s had no qualms about having his favored do just about everything he’s involved with, appearing for his KARL diffusion line look book, as well as an appearance for chanel’s resort 2012 campaign. as for joan, this chanel campaign was one of the first to debut for the spring advertising season & more campaigns she was cast for are surfacing as well. with karl’s love for greyscaled imagery living & breathing once again, the campaign is well conceptualized & proves to be cohesive from the collection’s inspiration & even the runway shows production & set design. sea shells, sea horses & pearlized tones were seen scattered all throughout the collection & that same oceanic/seashore aesthetic is beautifully captured in this campaign. the house of chanel has become distinctively associated with masculine design lines, which are well represented in the collection, as well as those lines being showcased in the campaign. aside from the clearly referenced seaside theme, i loved the use of gymnastic banisters & how strong a presence both girls have, both in their solo & coupled shots. overall, the casting of the campaign is what sets it apart from the rest. as thrilled as i was to see joan walking the runway for this collection, i am even more thrilled to see her being cast for major luxury campaigns, like chanel. not only an accomplishment for her portfolio, but as an accomplishment for the further diversification of ethnic models in the mainstream, joan has allowed another dimension of beauty to be represented. for that, joan remains a star in my eyes & i continue to support, promote & commend her incredible work. go behind the scenes with joan & saskia on the shoot of the spring campaign here.

visit jeremydante.tumblr.com to explore
my fascination with editorial

THE FASHION REPORT: EIGHTY-ONE

russian harper’s bazaar celebrates fifteen years with fifteen covers

celebrating 15 years in print, harper’s bazaar russia releases 15 commemorative covers. covers by karl lagerfeld, ralph lauren, moschino, viktor & rolf, diane von furstenburg, dolce & gabbana, antonio marras, armani, cavalli, sonia rykiel, jean paul gaultier, missoni, michael kors, versace & pucci are all seen in this post, as each allow their own individualized signatures to shine through. 15 years in the game is significant & i love that harper’s bazaar is always pushing the envelope as far as covers are concerned. they really capitalized, internationally, when they created special subscriber’s edition covers & separate newsstand editions. while creating subscription incentive, they double their mark of creativity by selecting two dope images rather than the standard of one. while many believe that fashion publications are slowly being phased out; i always say that nothing compares to see incredible images on high gloss paper. here’s to harper’s bazaar russia for many more years to come.

imagesource | tfs

abbey, anja, karmen, saskia + stella for numéro, september

karl lagerfeld doesn’t give a fuck when it comes to his faves; he’ll shoot them for every campaign, every cover & make space for them on the runways of chanel until they do something to fuck up their chances. this form of casting redundancy has become extremely boring to me & falls even more flat as karl continues to shoot in black & white. shot for the latest cover of numéro; abbey lee kershaw, anja rubik, karmen pedaru, saskia de brauw & icon, stella tenant all appear for this female five pack for september. while the image is not terrible, it does provide slight indication of the direction in which karl will likely go for the feature editorial; which is, for the most part, an extension of the cover. the fact that the bland contrast of usual suspects appears, the greyscaled images against a studio backdrop promise little to no real creative push- which is beyond disappointing. all this & we haven’t seen the issue. as much as i respect karl for what he’s done in the fashion game for what seems like forever, im hoping that he will somehow awake from this lull he’s been in. from his photography, to his collections for chanel- everything seems as dull as his black & whites. images & concepts are uninspired- im just expecting more. i suppose when you’re at that high a level, you can reach a creative peak.

imagesource | tfs