Tag: kris van assche

BAPTISTE GIABICONI FOR DIOR HOMME, SPRING

under the guidance of karl lagerfeld, male model baptiste giabiconi has easily been considered one of the most visible male models of the last five years. noticeable for his presence in all things lagerfeld associated, giabiconi’s presence is one that has become quite an annoyance to me in high fashion. while im not ignoring the fact that baptiste is incredibly handsome, my irritation with most of his bookings is that they were all afforded by his affiliation with karl. a master & living legend, karl lagerfeld is the creative director of chanel as well as his own namesake line, karl lagerfeld. he is also creatively involved with fendi & is a pronounced photographer & author. through all of karl’s brand affiliations, baptiste appears, each season. this not only creates a landslide of missed opportunities for other male models who actually put in the work with brands, casting agents & photographers; but the shit that baptiste puts our in terms of product or quality of modeling skill ain’t shit compared to others in the industry. the same bland, side profile, arched eyebrow, zoolander look is seen in every shot- which explains why i felt it necessary to only include one image from this campaign. all the other images appear no different than this one. karl lagerfeld has shot campaigns for chanel, dior homme & for his other sister collections within the karl lagerfeld brand umbrella. in baptiste’s portfolio, he boasts 11 chanel campaigns, 5 fendi campaigns & 6 karl lagerfeld campaigns. even more annoying is the fact that baptiste was cast for chanel campaigns- while chanel is more widely regarded as a womenswear brand that shows occasional menswear looks that are not produced for retail.

im down to support & acknowledge male model that showcase actual range & skill through bookings, editorial cameos & dope covers but the presence of baptiste in modeling has made a joke of fashion in many ways. with the less than thrilling collections that have been presented under the chanel label, under the direction of karl lagerfeld, over the past several seasons- not to mention the spurts of disrespectful remarks that karl spews to the press about other models, labels & such; it’s clear that karl is becoming more & more careless with what ‘fashion’ is as a creative industry. while i respect his contributions to fashion, through consistent design work with majorly iconic houses; i do find it necessary to voice an opinion when it hinders opportunities for other models in the industry. even beyond that, it’s just become this ridiculous circus; you start to approach other brands with a lack of enthusiasm, considering that you can bet that baptiste will reappear with the same fucking look on his face the next season following. the same minimal campaign theme is seen in karl’s less than stellar photography skills appear as baptiste adds yet another campaign to his resume. with rumors of a relationship & rumors of an engagement between lagerfeld & baptiste circling the internet over the past few years, one has to wonder what it really takes for models with actual skill to enter fashion. i assure you, fucking for campaigns isn’t as respectable as the work that is done by other male models who represent varied skill through diversification of men through advertising imagery. beyond his poorly executed pop singing career, another venture in which baptiste has been able to take on due to his involvement with karl, and the work that karl has scored for him- what is baptiste actually contributing to fashion? my sentiments exactly. before karl was connected to baptiste, he was sitting on a men’s board collecting dust- after he meets karl? he rises through the ranks as the #1 male model in fashion. one has to question; who is more foolish? the individuals who think that it’s okay to unfairly afford individuals coveted opportunities without having to work for them? or are the individuals who falsely praise these shoe-ins & give them these rankings the real idiots? it’s these elements that push me to question fashion & how it should be perceived or communicated to the masses. whether people see it or not, the images that portray labels, the models that are cast- the designs we see each season, those have an effect on our world & the culture we live in. i would hope that individuals who’ve been in the game as long as grandpa karl, would understand that & acknowledge that with some form of responsibility. fashion does have an affect.

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my fascination with editorial

editorialesque » johansson + szczukiecki for metal

 

as kris van assche continues to revitalize what it means to be the dior man, a resurgence of 90’s style is seen clearly defined by the current dior homme collection. shot by greg gex, styled by matthieu pabiot, alexander johansson of new york models appears alongside tomek szuczkiecki of wilhelmina for this metal magazine advertorial. ruled by clean lines & sleek design, i love both the designs of kris van assche’s name sake label & greatly admire his mission with dior homme. noticeably more modernized & a creative stand alone, when considering brand consistency alongside dior’s womenswear label, KVA deconstructs the idea of great menswear & allows new ground to be broken. the editorial spread, with intense lighting & dramatic shadows is a fitting representation of this new modernized vision. while i do recognize some 90’s elements within the collection, i feel as though not enough references in design were created to base an entire advertorial spread on them.   

imagesource | tfs

menswear collections: dior homme, fall

relaxed silhouettes, large brimmed hats & sleek designs with minimalistic style; the dior homme FW11 collection is refined, sophisticated & clean through concept.  hidden buttons on the collections dress shirts as well as more relaxed tailoring allow the collection to break away from styles we’ve seen from dior in season’s past. strategic palette selections of black & grey allow the set to showcase a modernized direction & free flowing structure. the collections coats really elongate the design lines seen within the collection, as the set allowed the menswear silhouette to become more stretched through construction of blazers, scoop necked long sleeved shirts & cardigans. at the back end of the collection two red looks allow the set to close with a bang. designed by kris van assche, the illest aspect of this collection is the coats. a powerful collection of relaxed lines & strong style.

imagesource | style

menswear collections: kris van assche, fall

with a formal design education completed in antwerp from 1994-1998; kris van assche has earned a valid rank in the world of high fashion having worked as assistant to hedi slimane at yves saint laurent for the rive gauche homme collection which afforded him opportunities soon thereafter. through his affiliations with slimane, kris is the current artistic director of the incredibly stylish dior homme collections. here he presents his latest collection for his namesake label, kris van assche. while the collection palette is blandly black & almost met with a dull expectation upon arrival to the runway, the collection breaks barriers with structured design lines & clean silhouettes. initially, i looked at the collection with a sigh of hopelessness but when taking a second look found myself, even more impressed with van assche in his vision for this label. created with a debut that took place in 2005, the kris van assche collections have become well known for forward concepts with respectful nods to classic menswear. while the blacked out front end of the collection almost distracts from the construction while drowning details, i respect the decision to  allow the palette to remain restricted & controlled. i loved the use of neutrals towards the end of the collection & am beyond impressed by van assche’s reworking of a minmal aesthetic. simple, striking & powerfully creative concepts- the kris van assche label is one that i look for each season. strong direction, sleek design, chic aesthetic.

imagesource | style

video: jude law for dior homme by guy ritchie

oleg antoski for dior homme, fall


represented by VNY, oleg antosik appears for the fall dior homme campaign shot by karl lagerfeld. expectedly understated, the design signature of the dior homme label is one of clean & crisp design lines. oleg has been seen on the runways for jil sander, kris van assche & of course, dior. he also booked the FW10 cK calvin klein campaign. the images here are simple & striking; the high top fade they groomed for oleg reminds me of prada’s SS09 menswear campaign. oleg hails from the russian federation. understated yet powerful in style, i love this campaign. it’s crisp & cool, while introducing a new face.

imagesource | tfs

menswear collections: kris van assche, spring

kris van assche often approaches his namesake collection with a ‘take no prisoners’ attitude. clean lines, minimal style & hardcore design elements are presented with no bullshit & the essence of forward fashion. predictably created in black & white, van assche’s summer/spring collection for the 2011 menswear season displayed mechanic chic. male models walked the runway with garments artistically stained with motor oil like substance & blackened hands. while the collection definitely adds an active style quality, it also presents structural influence in the collections blazers & formal looks. amidst the black were shaded features of grey & sheer textile. among the van assche design archive, the collection is not my favorite; but that being said- i still find great depths of inspiration for the concepts & vision that kris continually produces. an inspiring set.

imagesource | gq