Tag: menswear collection

FALL MENSWEAR: PRADA

 

MILAN – miuccia prada is one of few true trendsetters in fashion. im always wondering what she’ll unveil each season as she clearly comes at fashion in her own lane, separate from others. refined, sophisticated & in control- this season seen prada taking things one step further in creating almost presidentially sleek style for the runway. described as a ‘parody of male power’, the collection seen models walking alongside actors in the theatrical event. sprawling across a square, red carpeted runway- the models walked stiffly on the runway outfitted in regal coats, blazers & three piece suits buttoned all the way up each models neck. an accurate portrayal of how up tight powerful figures can be was demonstrated well on the runway & delivered the vision of the collection entertainingly. what i love of prada is that muiccia is smart & it shows in the clothes.

with a PhD in political science, miuccia prada; transcends beyond typical trend & is uses design as a reflection of the times, as seen each season. as a mere vehicle for this ultra-creative expression, muiccia again remains in her own lane with this concept of power that is seen in the strict slihouettes, double breasted blazers over trench coats & the unmasking of the male façade that is seen in the exposed undergarments of the models at the back end of this runway show. the runway show sequence started out very formal, what you would expect of a man in power to be outfitted in. but as the collection progressed use of print & bold tones appeared strikingly. the role of power was extended that much more with actors. gary oldman, academy award winner adrien brody, willem dafoe & jamie bell were cast for the role of model in the ‘palace of role play’ themed collection. everything about the collection was grand, the setting, the idea, the delivery- it was well played. always armed with dope accessories, i loved the color dipped footwear in the collection, which added an air of trend to the otherwise classic collection. the styling approach to layers was probably the most inspiring aspect of this collection to me. even with the solid toned looks, there were multiple layers of coats & blazers which made you take a closer look. throughout the collection, you were almost trying to figure out which level of power each look was designed to have. some looks more classic than some of the more bold, the collection palette was in line with other collections this season as a rich palette of earth tones was contrasted with maroon, plum & yellow for balance. eyewear had a subtle but charging presence in the collection as the shows soundtrack cut in & out from operatic vocals to new wave. arrogant by design, if such a thing exists, the collection was unapologetically masculine & took on the role of male stupidity well. added the fact that this role reversal of power was calculated at the hands of a women, this made the show much more exciting. the level of expression & meaning behind prada collections adds greater value, allowing fashion to take on the greater role of art. im eagerly anticipating if this same theme will be mirrored in the house’s womenswear collection & how that will all be translated through campaign direction. strong collection with a powerful message of male domineering. fashion with a message- that’s what its all about.

fall menswear collection, new york: calvin klein

with a palette entrance that reminded me of the richard chai collection, with dull undertones the calvin klein FW11 menswear collection took an unexpectedly bold turn as the set progressed. combined with more stone faced color choices bold use of red & blue were seen this season for the american based label, allowing further clarification to be made as to which colors will trend this coming fall. in cast, river viiperi, calvin klein favorites david agbodji & AJ abularub were seen alongside sacha m’baye on the runway this season, allowing masculinity to take center stage. i love the play on athelticism that is showcased, in design, for the calvin klein collections every season. though sports influenced, the atheletic elements that are seen in the collection are no less sophisticated than the collections formal suits. a dramatic signature of hardcore minimalism is expected from the house of calvin klein & it’s done expertly well, with slight creative variation each season. i love that the calvin klein collections really have allowed a new era in american design to be ushered in. an incredibly ill style direction was seen this season, as padded crew neck sweaters are a trend among a few of the menswear design collections for FW11. an impressive interpretation of progressive masculinity displayed for the fall season. one of my favorite labels of the americas.     

imagesource | gq

fall menswear collection, new york: antonio azzulo

a refreshing use of color adapted to clean style was seen for the FW11 menswear collection from antonio azzulo. a beautiful palette of white, caramel, washed aqua, cobalt blue & candy paint red were seen in the collection palette as colored mirror tint shades were seen on a few of the models. classic through style & design, wool trousers, striped sweaters, cotton leggings, slim fit denim & luxurious white fur were seen throughout the menswear set. elevating style for men, one look at a time- i loved the brown belted coat/pullover look in the begging & was romanticized by every fit, silhouette & style that was created this season. one of the most refreshing menswear collections of the season with classic appeal & strong direction. very well done.

imagesource | gq

fall menswear, new york: rag + bone

as new york fashion week goes through the motions of  presenting both menswear & womenswear side by side, not opting for a menswear show in milan; rag & bone presented their menswear collection on the runways in new york, yesterday. mirroring the same outrageous innovation & wild concepts through controlled creativity, the menswear collection uses a stunning yellow within their palette that wasn’t seen for the labels womenswear collection. similar use of plaid is seen in the menswear as more structure is expected for a menswear collection. statement coats are expected for fall collections & are presented in this collection in wool in blue, black, neutral & brown plaid. while minimal use of fur was seen within this set, i would’ve liked to see more breakout moments & more risks taken, being that menswear is usually under very strict guidelines given the need for tailored looks. masculine & sophisticated, even through wild styling & insane layering, the collection mirrors the creativity seen in the womenswear collection very well. i loved the collections use of blue at the close of the collection. the opportunity to contrast simplified concepts to more wild designs was done very well with the menswear collection. most menswear collections are held to a greater standard of control & order, whereas womenswear is much more expected to take risks & be a force of change in fashion. i love the idea of seeing menswear in new york as well, it allows a greater sense of connection for labels to present both collections to a stateside audience. new york is incredibly creative this season with a packed schedule of both new & veteran designers. that said, both new & veteran male models were seen on the runways for rag & bone this season as corey baptiste & yuri pleskun were seen on the runway alongside clement chabernaud & josh beech. among the throngs of creatives, rag & bone certainly holds their own, as demonstrated here. strong collection, one of my favorites.

imagesource | style

fall menswear, new york: dkny menswear

with the donna karan well developed into an empire of fashion, both high end & casual, the DKNY menswear collection was presented in new york for the FW11 show season. with formal looks that rival expected business attire for half of the men across america, the DKNY FW11 menswear collection is based in rich earth tones & showcases looks in every tone from navy to charcoal grey, black, maroon & khaki. while nothing particularly outstanding is shown, the collection skates by in providing a functional & stylish edition to any DKNY dudes closet & existing wardrobe. with interesting design editions like patch work, vests & relaxed blazers, the collection was seen with a cast including keith hernandez, jacob coupe & corey baptiste.

imagesource | tfs

fall collection exclusive: raun larose menswear, new york

inspired by the time traveler, write by roland mallet; i present to you an exclusive first look at the new FW11 menswear collection by raun larose. i was approached by larose himself & was very impressed by the thoughtful choice of textile & progressive approach to design. so many designers, aspiring models, photographers & developing fashion writers approach me with ideas or work they’ve done & i very rarely take the opportunity to present what is sent in to you as my readers.  for this collection, i wanted to start new york fashion week off with something special. as the first collection review for new york fashion week, i am taking a greater responsibility to represent talent that i find outstanding here in new york. quality of cut & fit are two aspects that larose prides himself on; his knowledge & appreciation for refined style & sophisticated design were showcased to him at an early age, through the hand & work of his mother whom worked as a seamstress with high end clients. through design, a distinct style is seen as a wide range of textiles were used to develop a strong direction in what is seen from larose this season. tweed, wool, cotton spandex, silk cotton organza, suede, sherling fur, neoprene, gabardine, mohair, poplin, velcro & swarovski crystal were all seen throughout this stunning collection of bold design. a particularly large amount of attention was paid to the future & how it relates to menswear, through larose’s inspiration of the time traveler. with an intention to tap into progression in design, i was very attracted to the classical elements & different layering that was pronounced in the style of each look & each piece. the male silhouette was pushed to the limit & relaxed in more ways than one; i loved the coats in the collection, as well as the fit of some of the oversized coat designs. slight use of color blocking was also seen in a few of the pieces but the classical & progressive elements were never disturbed. overall, a strong vision was clearly translated in a combined presentation of familiar & renewed design sensibility. a great collection & thoughtful set of design for the fall.

menswear collections: acne, fall

introduced as a denim collection in 1998, the acne empire is a wide ranged lifestyle brand that has developed a presence in a number of creative industries including fashion publication with acne paper; as well as developments in  web, film, art, design & advertising. with the success of acne denim, which stemmed from a special gift idea to family, friends & clients associated with the acne firm in 1997, the brand has consciously decided to conquer the world of  high end fashion. impressively so, acne has presented their FW11 menswear collection on the runways of paris men’s fashion week. as a swedish denim distributor, as a part of the stockholm based company, acne has allowed themselves to really shine in today’s modern fashion age. minimalism was seen through clean design lines & architectural influence that was demonstrated in structure on some of the collections coats. elongated silhouettes & well tailored looks were presented alongside stylized pieces of knitwear that were combined with bursts of color for contrast. as the closing show for men’s FW11 show season, the collection is one of the most impressive this season. judging from the fact that the collection is still very fresh, in development, what is seen completely exceeded my expecations. campaigns usually are not produced to promote the acne collections, they do own however own acne paper, which is a viable opportunity for them to advertise or promote their collections, possibly, through editorial styling. the label, which stands for “ambition to create novel expressions”  is exceptionally developed with great possibilities to become something larger than expected within the this year. a very, very impressive set of design.

imagesource | gq