Tag: milan mens fashion week

menswear collections: z by zenga, fall

the design & manufacturing empire of ermenegildo zegna was founded in 1910 & is known internationally as the world’s leader in fine men’s clothing. while you might throw shade at the label, don’t be so quick to activate your side-eye; powerhouse labels like gucci, yves saint laurent & tom ford get there suits manufactured by the zenga company- adding yet another historical dimension to their reputable name. with massive production totaling to a yearly output of 2.3 million meters of fabric, 600,000 sleeve units suits, 1.6 million pieces of sportswear and 1.7 million textile accessories. as we seen the main line of ermenegildo zegna open the FW11 menswear show season; as the first collection shown in milan, here we see the labels Z by Zenga label & a modernized sub-division within their italian based fashion house. the collection taps into the zenga signatures of wool, as we seen wool suits appear on the runway for most of the collection. the house of zenga is one of the largest buyers of merino wool & their wool suits have largely attributed to their international success. spectacularly conceptualized coats were the headlining element of this collection, as the palette remained masculine, rich & luxurious- elements that are true to the zenga name. refined & sophisticated, i was very impressed by the showing of Z by Zenga this season & hopefully you all make an effort to familiarize yourself with their legacy. inspiring style & classic approach.

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menswear collections: dsquared², fall

the DSQUARED² label has developed a style signature with their denim/white dress shit/skinny black tie look & this season, the continue to push that signature. with additions of butcher chic, complete with aprons, black leather & boots- the men of the FW11 collection appear with eye glasses & caps that compliment the direction of the set quite well. more of a theatrical design duo, twin brothers dean & dan showcase an impressive menswear collection for the upcoming fall season. double paired suspenders, double belted coats & layering of denim coats with blazer further allow the spirit of the DSQUARED² vision to be felt on a greater level. love the collection for it’s approach to breaking new ground & introducing new ideas. DSQUARED² is one of my favorite menswear labels, simply for the fact that they think outside of the box & really pushes the limits to what defines masculinity, style & ultimately, menswear. cohesive vision from first look to last, an ill combination of rugged & formal.

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: giorgio armani, fall

the giorgio armani collection stayed in line with their usual direction, providing handsome looks for men for the FW11 show season in milan. a dark palette of grey, blue & black were combined with a few drops of orange, pink & purple for contrast. though the collection is cohesive, some of the attempts at providing relativity to the current seasonal trends seem forced & dully injected into the stone faced concepts of the set. i like a few of the pieces because they are hardcore elements of armani signatures, which in many ways can come off as redundant or revisited. a strong direction outside of the poor choice in contrasted tones at the mid-section of the collection. the armani label continues to stay in their own lane, creativitely & im sure a stunning campaign will be shot with a gorgeous male model to make this seem like more than it appears on the runway.

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: moschino, fall

the FW11 collection presented for the house of moschino combined elements of classical menswear to that of rugby sportswear. while im not, by definition, considered a jock- the close of the runway show seemingly swaped models for actual athletes as the men who appeared walked toting what appear to be rugby footballs. i love the concept of athleticism in fashion & feel that it adds another classical dimension to menswear; almost always, i love the fused elements from sportswear to that of clothing for men. the palette was predominantly black with heavy accents of red with minimal use of white with shots of blue throughout. francisco lachowski opened the show as runway slayer, zakaria khiare also appeared on the runway. a solid cast with creative concepts for fall. all in all a strong direction & impressive execution; expert layering seen with the styling.

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: alexander mcqueen, fall

presenting military structure & a recognizably more tamed style aesthetic, the designs of sarah burton have officially infiltrated the house of mcqueen. i love how structured the designs are & was very impressed with the multi-layered coats as well as the details of layering & the powerful palette. the most refreshing aspect of the collection was the meteoric use of yellow against the enlarged collared coat in runway look no. 9- stunning & incredibly inspiring for fall. classic menswear pieces were seen in the collection as hints of texture, plaid & velvet were used. my favorite piece of the collection is the satin coat, look no. 27 although i love the leather cape/coat as well. the collection has a strong direction while the styling is not exaggerated rather silently represented through striking concepts. solid direction, understated & elegant- handsome designs for the fall.

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: versace, fall

modernized structure, incredible use of leather & stunning contrast was seen for the FW11 versace menswear collection. designed by martyn bal, progressive concepts allow simple & understated details to shine even brighter as sophistication of the collection remains untouched. diamond stitched leather was seen alongside sharp tailoring & refined grooming- allowing versace to rightfully take it’s place as a trendsetting label of the future. geometric prints were used in the collections as well as pixelated prints that appeared on some of the pants that walked the runway & to say the least, i was impressed. powerful shots of blue were injected to the mid-section of the collection, allowing details of black to becoming highlighted stylishly. very pleased with this direction & beyond impressed with the execution; beautiful use of camel toned designs as well. one of my favorite collections presented this fall, martyn bal has expert sense in design & im very happy with the chosen direction.

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menswear collections: D&G, fall

presenting a collection that came off more camp for the FW11 season in milan, dominico & stefano presented a colorful set of menswear for their D&G label in milan today. i admire the fun approach to menswear but could recognize very close similarities to collections we’ve seen from dean & dan of DSQUARED2 in the past. the licensing of mickey mouse & coca-cola are fun while still appealing to a younger demographic, which is the goal of the D&G label. while questionable design mixed matches were seen on dual colored sleeves, i didn’t come away as inspired as i have in seasons past with this collection. always a stunning male cast, we seen familiar faces david agbodji of request models & corey baptiste of VNY close & open the show. round of applause no less for presenting a new direction compared to last spring & the fall of 2010. great direction, recycled concepts but promising. bold use of color, not usually expected for fall- fantastical use of fur. congratulations to david & corey.

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