Tag: new age minimalism

FALL MENSWEAR: RICK OWENS

 

PARIS – rick owens was always a designer that i was fascinated by but didn’t necessarily understand upon my getting better acquainted with fashion. it’s that lack of understanding that has pushed me to gain a better feel for what true ‘fashion’ is & how it is driven by style. in the context of style, rick owens is one of the best. if looking at just the clothes, just the images & never scratching the surface of the essence of what rick owens represents in fashion- of course you would never understand. as my last collection review for the FW12 menswear season, i wanted to close on a high note. this high note being the true mark of showmanship that can only be done by rick. with his legions of black, grey, white & the occasional bone toned fashion followers- rick is a true original in this game of fake fashion fucks. sound tracked by what i would describe as new wave tribal, everything from sound to stage, cut to seam- rick owens has mastered the art of expression while not worrying about what ‘everyone else’ is doing. while other designers find it necessary to expose nipples, shorten hem lines & add logos, sequins or fur; there exists owens. much of his approach to fashion, as a design force, is almost etched in the crevices of his runway show production. a show by every sense of the word; it’s magical to see sets of models sprayed onto the runway in sleek silhouettes of leather, platformed calve high boots & funneled necks. that is rick owens. it’s almost so mesmerizing to see his collection walk the runway that you become so engulfed in the production that you find yourself having to watch again, because the collection itself is dripping in details. details that stretch the mere style, into an essential.

what i loved about rick owens this season was his feel for that galactic aesthetic. stronger lines, more structure & a runway entrance that was cocaine white & glowing under stage lights. with an upcoming exhibit for his furniture about to commence, owens has taken every opporutnity to immerse himself in celebratory fashion for this event & his latest collection fell into that catagory. dubbed ‘magic mountain’ the collection is cited for it’s aspiration, inspiration & sportiff style direction. the essence of magic, i feel, is represented in the collections use of interplanetary lines that seem unbreakable when added to the rick owens silhouette. this season’s fall collection was praised for being aerodynamic, as rick’s favored silhouettes of relaxed pants & form fitting shirts that drift far beyond the waist were all meticulously combined. what i love of rick’s collection is that they take on even greater creative form in person, when purchased. the true art of rick’s clothes cannot even begin to be felt through simple images or show video- which seem to drown out details, which allow rick’s collections to be received on a greater, much more valued, style level. i am continually inspired by rick’s unbreakable sense of dedication to his own aesthetic, which has spawned many, many trends in high fashion & continues to puncture the culture & their perception of style.

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: balenciaga

nicolas ghesquière continues to bring the house of balenciaga to the forefront of fashion foward design, delivering complex concepts & jaw dropping glamour. while last season seen the balenciaga label playing with the big boys, channeling masculine edge & furthering the trend of androgyny. this season, those same concepts are focused on while design lines become elongated, print swirled throughout & innovative design was seen on the collections coats. from multi-colored collars to clean combinations of leather, wool & fishnet- the collection manages to introduce a gang of design while balancing all details creatively & imaginatively. as few models walked the runway with colored uni-brows- the FW11 collection really touched on another level of fashion design that use intricate details as well as new aged minimalism. a beautiful collection, though i hope a fitting campaign image comes of this. stunning design, incredibly inspiring- balenciaga is the illest. 

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: mugler by formichetti

nicola formichetti & sébastien peigné revealed their FW11 womenswear collection for the house of thierry mugler in paris yesterday & it was quite the sight to see. twitter feeds buzzed, while conversations were electrified as anna wintour sat front row & lady gaga smoked cigarettes on the cat walk. overall, the show was a success- i was impressed by the lively characters each of the models took on from look to look, one of pop’s heaviest hitters closed the show & it got everyone talking. fashion is about a reaction & that they got with this collection, which showcased a bit of 90’s reinvention with a bit of new age minimalism. while the show was entertaining, the exaggerated movements of the models distracted from the clothes- leaving us as a fashion audience to unavoidably think of one thing- gaga. nicola formichetti, who is the artistic director of the mugler label, is also the stylist of lady gaga & while i had hoped to see something groundbreaking & unseen- i found nothing of the sort within this collection. yes, you’re entertained when you see the show; but when still shots of the runway images are released models appear without poise, in akward positions & overall, you’re not looking at the clothes because all you can think is, “why is she making that face?”. i applaud the intent of formichetti & the mugler brand to reinvent that same type of runway show from the 90’s but in contrast to the body of design work seen- im not impressed. the mugler name is overshadowed by the controversy that lives in the form of lady gaga; overexposure & all. the designs presented differ very little from what lady gaga would wear in her stage shows & in concern of functionality- how wearable are these pieces? a solid direction but little to no design quality was created outside of things we’ve already seen. i hope to see much more creative development outside of lady gaga’s shadow next season. if you missed the show, be sure to catch the previous post for video.

imagesource | vogue.fr

runway video: fall calvin klein womenswear collection

fall menswear collection, new york: calvin klein

with a palette entrance that reminded me of the richard chai collection, with dull undertones the calvin klein FW11 menswear collection took an unexpectedly bold turn as the set progressed. combined with more stone faced color choices bold use of red & blue were seen this season for the american based label, allowing further clarification to be made as to which colors will trend this coming fall. in cast, river viiperi, calvin klein favorites david agbodji & AJ abularub were seen alongside sacha m’baye on the runway this season, allowing masculinity to take center stage. i love the play on athelticism that is showcased, in design, for the calvin klein collections every season. though sports influenced, the atheletic elements that are seen in the collection are no less sophisticated than the collections formal suits. a dramatic signature of hardcore minimalism is expected from the house of calvin klein & it’s done expertly well, with slight creative variation each season. i love that the calvin klein collections really have allowed a new era in american design to be ushered in. an incredibly ill style direction was seen this season, as padded crew neck sweaters are a trend among a few of the menswear design collections for FW11. an impressive interpretation of progressive masculinity displayed for the fall season. one of my favorite labels of the americas.     

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: jil sander, fall

pure in concept, bold in palette the  jil sander menswear collection was another solid performance & addition to the labels archive. taffy toned suits were seen alongside shades of oatmeal, fuschia, white, yellow, blue & tangerine. streamlined & minimal, there was little fuss of distraction of print or heavy embellishment, which is an aspect of design the sander name has become synonymous with. i loved the coats in the collection & admire the bold use of color. each look is irresistibly stylish & though progressive, the designs will likely remain timeless for many seasons to come. loved the choice & intrigue seen in the selection of textiles, as well as the slight hinges of texture in a few of the collections pieces toward the end- well done.

imagesource | wwd

sophie holmes for nicole miller, spring

through the lens of robbie fimmano, sophie holmes appears strikingly for the SS11 nicole miller campaign. represented by IMG models, sophie has appeared in scattered editorial & campaign spots since she arrived on the model scene in 2006. greyscaled images with white hot lighting were created for the spring season, intended on thrusting the miller label into the high fashion stratosphere, even greater, by becoming a larger influence in american fashion. established in 1982, the brand has been making impressively creative moves through design & direction; as so greatly demonstrated here. i love the images & can feel a larger influence of new age minimalism, an aesthetic that has had a rapid effect on  fashion.

imagesource | nicolemiller