Tag: new york based design label

FALL MENSWEAR: MARC JACOBS

NEW YORK – with collections by marc jacobs, i really have to watch my step- there are some seasons when i just don’t understand the direction. thankfully, this sesaon, for menswear- that was not the case. heavily based in a palette of rich yellows & golden tones of mustard, marc jacobs created a flawless set that captures his love of bold style & vibrant color. i’ve long been impressed by marc’s ability to use color & print in modern ways that balance the retro with the ultra-modern & progressive. this season, he created a very interesting set which balanced both ends of the spectrum perfectly. dubbed “weird luxury”, inspired by ninties skaters & istambul, the collection provides an answer to jacobs’ afinity for combining style genres seemlessly to create something unseen, beautifully inspired & original. most impressive was the collections color story.

i loved the looks that were presented- strong lines were presented along with a range of both formal & casual pieces. as complete looks as well as piece by piece, the collection packed a powerful punch. standing out amidst the sea of menswear collections which present the same knitwear/sportcoat/denim/trouser combo each season. the collection hosted a set of colored-lens sunglasses that worked as a beautiful extension of the collection & is sure to be a huge hit in the accessories market. in addition to the headlining tones of yellow that engulfed the collection, use of oatmealed beige, green, jewel toned red, deep brown & navy were artistically styled into the collection. in terms of collection look book styling, the overall direction of the fall set was done expertly well. use of plaid, suede & additional accessories including hats & bags allowed the collection to standout among it’s american competitors. a standout not only in the american market, but the global market; i was actually very surprised i liked this collection at first glance, considering my feelings toward jacobs’ collections of the past. beautiful palette with stunning use of contrasted colors, modern concepts & surprising inspiration managed to make this collection a must see, in my opinion, for the fall. [source]

collection images: jen kao, resort

intricate use of print was the main attraction for the 2012 resort collection by jen kao. based in new york city, established in 2007, kao is of taiwanese ethnicity & was raised in kansas. representing a new era in american fashion design, kao’s style of design has been hailed as ‘art inspired’ & clearly, those signatures are well represented for the pre-season. while intimate in number, the collection holds value in the few pieces that are seen while timeless style & trend relativity are all felt in what is presented. a controlled palette for the most part, the collections use of green is modern & fresh, young & sophisticated.

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collection images: reed krakoff, resort

i’ve greatly admired the accessory designs of reed krakoff & have been waiting to see how much more stylized development would be seen for krakoff’s womenswear designs. for the 2012 resort pre-season, it seems as though that development is steadily in place. the collection closely mirrors what we see in krakoff’s stunning handbags- vibrant colors, a minimal aesthetic. overall, the collection is perfectly modern & holds the right amount of classical appeal while not isolating the trendy from the more sophisticated types that live & die in high end fashion. in palette, the collection began as a cool set of cobalt blue, which writhed into a set of green & boiled to a final set of red looks. a promising set for the pre-season & i can’t wait to see what is presented for new york fashion week, not to mention my anticipation for a debut krakoff advertising campaign.

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collection images: calvin klein, resort

sticking to their guns, even during the 2012 resort pre-season, calvin klein sticks to their expected set of concepts showcasing minimalism & a controlled palette. underwhelming as ever, im always amazed that the marketing approach of calvin klein is always so stellar, season after season. while pre-season advertising campaigns are very few amidst regular season ad campaigns, i don’t think any ads will be shot to make this look anything beyond drab. i feel like i say this every single season when reviewing calvin klein collections & find it important to reiterate when the same emotions strike me; i respect forms of minimalism but also readily identify when these forms of simplicity border boring. while i applaud the clean approach to the resort season, i shake my head in disapproval at the lack of creativity being shown from such an iconic american label. elongated silhouettes took center stage of the collection, which was presented runway style in new york city. egg shell whites & expected use of white was seen while shots of grey & navy managed to make their way through. overall, the collection is boring as shit. im hoping that some form of excitement will be shown come SS12 show season, but given the track record of the label- those possibilities are looking grim. i will say that i admire the amount of consistency of the past few seasons, but im over this.

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collection images: derek lam, resort

colorfully imaginative & relative to what we’ve seen during show season, derek lam manages to collectively tribute his latest design work with a revitalized approach to the 2012 resort pre-season. what’s most inspiring of the derek lam design aesthetic is the quality of construction; you can see it in the most simplified garments which allow basic items to become tranformed into works of art. i love the use of color in this collection; the use of blue is very resort & oozes that effortlessness associated with the resort/cruise pre-season. while some use of black & rich tones of brown are seen, these palette additions allow greater forms of seasonal longevity for consumers looking to make long term style investments. overall, the collection is a fitting follow-up to what we’ve seen on the runways but is progressive & appropriate through cut & palette. solid, all in all.

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collection images: jill stuart, resort

endearingly girly, the 2012 resort collection presented by jill stuart capitalized on use of print, bold color & playful concepts. use of denim was seen as well as a bit of vintage, susie-homemaker was felt in the collections use of cut & with presentation of style. while a vintage feel was represented modern cuts were seen in the collections silhouettes; i loved the collection palette & found it fitting for the resort pre-season while also acting as an opposition to other labels & their excessive use of yellow. of course blue was seen through the use of denim while red, navy & flecks of soft pink neutral were seen as well, mixed with the collections range of prints. overall, the collection is fun- a lively approach to pre-season.

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collection images: thakoon, resort

prints ran wild for the 2012 thakoon resort collection as contrasts of yellow were seen & darker toned designs were revealed near the collections end. i will say that i didn’t expect this direction from thakoon, given his design history & what seemed like a love for minimalism. while the resort collection seen here still adhere’s to basic princples of minimalism, the use of pattern & color bring out a different feel. im not entirely impressed with the set & feel that more complimentary tones could’ve elevated the collections appeal much more. modest cuts & school girl style direction are seen as one shot of red added an air of vibrance. i hope that this direction is dead & gone come show season. not one thakoon’s best, im afraid.

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