Tag: new york based designer

PRE-FALL COLLECTIONS: JASON WU

NEW YORK – in an effort to release myself from the feeling of entrapment amidst all of this high fashion bullshit; the nature of collection reviews will be going slightly different. only dedicating myself to shit i absolutely love, the 2012 pre-fall collection presented by jason wu fall under that category. after underwhelming collections by elie tahari, DKNY, chanel, oscar de la renta, carolina herrera & michael kors- the jason wu collection struck me dead. while some collections have had outstanding looks, overall, as a collection the jason wu pre-fall set, thus far, takes the cake. inspired by illustrator, charley harper & the maharaja, the collection takes on a beautiful fall palette. most outstanding was the use of green within this collection’s palette. wide ranged, stylistically, the collection takes everything associated with fall & adds wu’s magical design touch in a perfect way. jewel tones were given added depth in the collection as the set closed with a dramatic grouping of gowns. the collection could not have been more beautiful; clean lines, beautiful jackets, super sick use of fur & well tailored pant looks. strong execution, expert style brought to life. considering how young of a design wu is, his approach to high fashion & fine design has beautifully evolved in front of our very eyes. probably one of my favorite designers in the american market. standing ovation to this collection, im on my feet. [source]

collection images: yigal azrouël, resort

remaining in a lane all his own, the yigal azrouël 2012 resort collection is one of relaxed silhouettes, bold tones & refined aesthetics. i loved the range of colors used & appreciate the air of effortlessness that is represented in the collections shapes & design lines. theres something very fluid about the azrouël aesthetic. based in new york but born in israel & of french-morrocan ethnicity, a theme of exotic inspiration is felt more often than not from the yigal collections. overall, the collection showcases a strong continuation of what’s been seen in the past few seasons. a commendable effort for the pre-season; sophisticated & versatile while not isolating any one group of consumers. love the palette, tremendously.

imagesource | style

collection images: michael kors, resort

bum rushing the resort pre-season, it seems as though new york’s biggest designer names are going the fuck in, in terms of collections. combining design concepts we’ve seen for his SS11 & FW11 collections, designer michael kors takes the opportunity to once more represent neon colors & a bit of scuba gear inspiration. a fitting collection for the resort pre-season, i liked what was presented but found no sense of excitement; even considering the large number of looks that were created. i have noticed that the kors label has become much more modernized & refined over time- almost as if they are minimalizing all of the unecessary & stipping each collection, each season down to the essentials. while neon colors make the collections style essentials seem groundbreaking, for the most part, i had expected to see something along these lines. that said, i applaud the consistency in design aesthetic from what we seen during the last two seasons, to now.

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fall collections, new york: monique lhuillier

with a focus on textures, the FW11 collection presented by monique lhuillier is one of beautiful construction & elegant design. always looking at fashion as a form of story telling, i love what is presented gradually from the first look to the last. at the entrance of the show sequence, a focus on more heavy pieces including outerwear were seen. as the collection progressed, the clothes become more & more stripped; necklines dropped, lace exposed more skin & it almost seemed as though winter was melting away one model at a time, eventually leading us to next season, spring. subtle use of animal print was introduced throughout the collection as shots of red lit the mostly black & earth toned palette. gold undertones tapped into the trend of metallics for the fall & drama ensued in the form of an army of gowns that lead to the collections close. gowns constructed of sheer textiles, tulle & ostrich feathers allowed each gown to become greatly individualized through design additions in the form of animal print, sequins, lace & ruffles. in the collection, i loved the brown dipped gown with the intricate neckline- a gorgeous piece & one of the standout designs of this season. i admire the direction taken this fall & applaud lhuillier’s refined style.

imagesource | style

fall collections, new york: sally lapointe

inspired by photographic processing, the sally lapointe label continues to push forward into the FW11 show season in new york with progressive & innovative vision. with a bit more of an avant garde approach to the female silhouette, i loved this collection from the first look to the last. structured shouldes & metallic undertones were ever present throughout the collection & an inspired palette is all the more clearly translated in speaking with lapointe herself, she explains, “the color palette was determined by the order in which a photograph develops, the RGB, it goes from red to green to blue.  so I started with silver as my ‘blank canvas’ and layered the colors in that order.” i was blown away at how well the vision of the collection was translated; though progressive the collection is still distinctively feminine in color & cut, elements which complimented each other within this set. textiles of lamb skin, waxed suede, boiled wool, lambs fur, silk, georgette, hammered satin, rayon and lamé jersey allowed the lapointe style signature to become even more greatly pronounced than last season. presented at the lincoln center the collection’s final look was a jaw dropping red number of epic creativity & outter worldly glamour. i loved the use of print & applaud, with enthusiasm, how well the lapointe label has created such a strong mark each season. based in new york, i asked sally what her mission is, as a designer creating fashion in our society; to which she explains, “i want to put forward and represent a generation of women who are modern, feminine & aggressive.  i believe that my mission in today’s complex industry is finding that balance between my own creative vision, and providing wearable desirable pieces for a variety of women” . that said, i am telling you to put the lapointe brand on your radar. this season in particular, the designers of new york city have really come out swinging & as demonstrated by lapointe, a spectacular new ear awaits.  

imagesource | sallylapointe

fall collections, new york: thom browne

quirky, experimental & over the top- the thom browne collections are always a sight to see. this season, browne capitalizes on his love for plaid, plaid & more plaid. a gang of printed looks were seen on the runway as the models walked with feathered lashes & head covers. as the collection progressed past the show opening, simplified styles made a mark & showcased the true style sensibility that is most true to browne’s skills of construction & design. elaborately layered coats in grey, volumized dresses & heavy knitwear were seen as the collection introduced concepts that used fur & wool. the three stripe browne signature was clearly highlighted & even done in colored fur within the collection as handbags, shoes, gloves & ties were noticed packed into the awe-inspiring womenswear.  of strict style in outrageous form, i really loved the vision & admire the direction taken this fall. in contrast to what was shown for browne’s menswear collection in paris, his vision seems stunningly powerful & thoughfully developed. i value the thom browne collections as an exaggeration of traditional style; in many ways it allows you to look & understand something very familiar & challenges your perception, creatively.

imagesource | style

fall collections, new york: vera wang

the vera wang FW11 collection surprised me in it’s show of rugged & still soft feminine influence. in season’s past, i had criticized what was presented on the runway as being unpolished & unattractive; but this season a defined form of urban elegance is felt. with a dark, moody eye & slightly undone hair fur lined parkas were matched to ethereal gowns & ankle boots that allowed vera’s elegant style signature to clash with the edge of new york city street fashion. i was very inspired by how rugged & perfected each look was- very, very happy with what was created this year, in style & design. all our faves walked for the show as daphne gorenveld opened leading joan smalls, ming xi, kasia struss, hanne gaby odiele, sigrid agren, jac & frida gustavsson, among others, down the runway. arizona muse closed the show in a vintage inspired sleeved gown which allowed the soft feel i described to be felt through to the end. cohesive from the first look to the last; it’s glamourous, edgy, sophisticated & extremely stylish- i love this collection & applaud the vera wang label. here two perceptions of style collide, perfectly.

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