Tag: nicola formichetti

SPRING MENSWEAR: MUGLER

PARIS – in season’s past, i’ve panned the mugler collections for being boring or for seemingly underwhelming following all the media hype. much of my interest in fashion is rooted in the history of these brands, which allows me to really understand the total vision of certain labels & their respective design directions from season to season. brand history remains the touchstone for me when im doing collection reviews as well. im given the opportunity to correctly analyze the level of growth or respectful nod to the past in which creative directors apply to their work between the fall & winter, as well as the spring & summer. the mugler label is one that has been historically associated with a heightened level of creativity. from mugler’s exaggeration of the female form, to perfumes to his artistic advisory role on beyonce’s “i am” tour; the vision of theirry mugler is one that is recognized by many creatives across the board.

considering mugler’s established presence on the creative scene, i was initially interested in the choice to add nicola formichetti on as the labels creative director with plans to revisit the idea of creating a mugler label. after the first menswear collection was presented which was followed by womenswear that same season, i was put off by the ridiculous amount of PR the label was getting. with the involvement of lady gaga, whom is a styling client of formichetti, i was annoyed that the label was getting lost in the hype of the celebrity sponsors. it was not fashion, instead a circus. a circus soundtracked by one of music’s latest icons, gaga. no shade to gaga for her involvement, it allowed the label to become a conversational piece. but the hype & inclusion of pop stars seemed to overshadow the clothes. with all the hype, naturally, one would expect brilliance with all the hype, right? wrong. the clothes were simple. understated, you could say, but with all the hype- they seemed drab. i couldn’t understand or see what was so great- like the clothes didn’t live up to all the hype.

this season, after the hype has seemingly simmered, the collection was suddenly brilliant. outside of hype, existed this simple & striking set of menswear that showed the male physique in a way that had not been shown by other labels this season. just like that, i got it. i understood it- the vision, the modernization of what thierry mugler had created himself. as formichetti had mentioned, he intended to draw much more focus with the collection & thankfully so, the hype was getting to be too much. my eyes were rolling by reflex every time i seen something with the mention of mugler. something powerful is to be said of the need to disconnect; certain forms of disconnection, as i experience myself, allow for greater creativity. cited as aquatically inspired, the collection hosts concepts accurate to trend this season with the use of neon & contemporary tailoring. short shorts, cut outs exposing certain portions of the male torso- it was all done extremely well & outside of the media glare. it became about the fashion, about the design again. which i loved. the use of neon has been done by mugler before & i credit him as one label that has brought it back, somewhat, into the realm of what is considered stylish, as it relates to trend. i hope that formichetti stays in this lane of separation from the overkill of celebrity faces which crowd the front row these day. [source]

editorialesque » zhao lei for vogue hommes japan beauty

zhao lei, represented by wilhelmina models, appears for the spring issue of vogue hommes japan through the lens of ben weller. with hair by tomo jida & styling by shun watanabe, the ‘smooth operator’ themed spread focuses on masculine beauty in the form of flawless skin. one aspect i heavily scrutinize when reviewing beauty shots is the quality of retouching; it’s no secret that high fashion editorial is retouched among many other things that we, as the public, are attracted to. whether you’re zooming in to see pores or if you’re trying to decifer whether or not the make-up ends here & begins there- one things for sure, the concept of men’s beauty will never be as vastly explored as it has been for women. i admire the seen here & applaud the opportunity taken to create a male’s perspective on beauty. good set of images, bold backdrops & yes photoshop.  

imagesource | amb

lady gaga for i-d

poised to be honored at this years CFDA awards as a fashion icon, lady gaga has made no attempts to go full steam ahead with her intent to conquer the world of pop culture, music & fashion through constant exposure & in your face attitude. shot in this grayscaled image by mariano vivanco, gaga is on a quest to use her new album as a platform for yet another visual transformation, borrowing influence from alexander mcqueen’s SS10 plato’s atlantis collection; which was the platform gaga used to debut her international smash, “bad romance”. in using prosthetics, gaga is knowledgeable in her efforts to adapt bits & pieces from others & apply them to her ‘fame dripped’ persona.  already a developed fashion darling, gaga’s stylish is the creative director of the revived thierry mugler label, which gaga walked & sonically soundtracked in paris for both the labels menswear & womenswear shows. in addition to being heavily involved at mugler, rick genest, the face of mugler menswear, also appears in her “born this way” music video, which is the lead single of her album of the same title. while the most interesting thing about gaga is her habits of constant image hi-jacking, i will say that this cover is stunning & her mcqueen inspiration is well applied. but at which point do celebrities & their labels decide that you’ve surpassed the level of overexposure. from the runway to the charts, on the blogs & front page news. isn’t gaga tiring us as an audience.

imagesource | tfs

daisuke ueda for vogue hommes japan

represented by new york models, japanese male model daisuke ueda appears on three cover shot for vogue hommes japan for the publications 6th issue. shot by steven klein, the japanese men’s style publication ventures into a realm of editorial concepts unseen from any other men’s publications in fashion. as the driving force of creativity, nicola formichetti is the brainchild behind vogue hommes japan & i expect that his work with mugler will trickle into the glossed pages this time around as well. as we’ve seen with formichetti’s styling work with gaga, nicola never hestitates to cross borders that separate different projects. while cover two is shared with seijo imazaki, we see masked models who have been identified as david chiang, jae yoo, mateus lages & cameron zuniga. im very excited for the issue & applaud the ethnic representation of asian models in fashion; this further shatters the barrier for represented ethnicities & here it is creatively done. to me japan & style are intricately intertwined, representing clean & fluid lines with effortless beauty & simplified allure. very excited for this issue, im sure this one won’t dissapoint. to aide japanese tsunami relief, you can do so here.   

imagesource | tfs

rick genest for mugler, fall

as a rising star for his involvement with mugler & fittingly alongside gaga for her ‘born this way’ campaign, rick genest appears for the fall campaign for mugler menswear. shot in black & white, relatively similar to the collections hype previews before the first collection debuted, i feel as though the campaign images make the collection that much more chic. im very about contrast- whether it be black against white, pink against yellow, light against dark or with something more subdued against something extreme. i love the simplicity that is felt in being contrasted to rick’s over the top tatted body. while in the past years we’ve seen male models tap into the tattoo subculture, no model has ever been this vividly tatted & working in fashion. not represented by an agency & seemingly below industry height requirements, genest is setting the stage for a new world of models to open up. shot by mariano vivanco & styled by mugler creative direction, nicola formichetti, rick is the official face of the brand for as far as we can see. while i do admire the groundbreaking move to cast genest- doesn’t he prove to be a distraction to the clothes rather than a compliment? models are a large factor of fashion as they either compliment or take away from the effect of design. one things for sure, when you see genest, the last thing you’re looking at are the clothes. while pop phenom gaga proves to be the distraction of choice for womenswear- is there a greater message at what we’re being distracted by or is there an underlying simplicity that is simply itching to be redefined? all that aside, this definitely gets us thinking.  

imagesource | tfs

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: mugler by formichetti

nicola formichetti & sébastien peigné revealed their FW11 womenswear collection for the house of thierry mugler in paris yesterday & it was quite the sight to see. twitter feeds buzzed, while conversations were electrified as anna wintour sat front row & lady gaga smoked cigarettes on the cat walk. overall, the show was a success- i was impressed by the lively characters each of the models took on from look to look, one of pop’s heaviest hitters closed the show & it got everyone talking. fashion is about a reaction & that they got with this collection, which showcased a bit of 90’s reinvention with a bit of new age minimalism. while the show was entertaining, the exaggerated movements of the models distracted from the clothes- leaving us as a fashion audience to unavoidably think of one thing- gaga. nicola formichetti, who is the artistic director of the mugler label, is also the stylist of lady gaga & while i had hoped to see something groundbreaking & unseen- i found nothing of the sort within this collection. yes, you’re entertained when you see the show; but when still shots of the runway images are released models appear without poise, in akward positions & overall, you’re not looking at the clothes because all you can think is, “why is she making that face?”. i applaud the intent of formichetti & the mugler brand to reinvent that same type of runway show from the 90’s but in contrast to the body of design work seen- im not impressed. the mugler name is overshadowed by the controversy that lives in the form of lady gaga; overexposure & all. the designs presented differ very little from what lady gaga would wear in her stage shows & in concern of functionality- how wearable are these pieces? a solid direction but little to no design quality was created outside of things we’ve already seen. i hope to see much more creative development outside of lady gaga’s shadow next season. if you missed the show, be sure to catch the previous post for video.

imagesource | vogue.fr

runway video: thierry mugler fall prêt-à-porter, paris