Tag: olivier theyskens

ELISE CROMBEZ FOR THEYSKENS’ THEORY

as a creative force that i respect & admire, olivier theyskens segues into the campaign sector for the fall/winter 2012 season. cast as the brands face for the fall is DNA model management’s elise crombez. following my meghan collison for proenza post, crombez also shared casting credits with collison last season for the house of prada. lovely to see elise gaining greater model traction in the form of landing a solo campaign for a on-the-rise brand like theyskens’ theory. while the clothes are almost hidden through the campaigns dark direction, the overall execution of the campaign is so accurate to theyskens’ own presence on the runway. the way the light is in soft focus, the contorted poses from the backseat of a car- it’s beautiful. beautiful not in the commercialized or expected sense, but beautiful in that it’s interesting.

one aspect i completely respect of theyskens is his ability to remain true to himself, his ability to act in complete faith of his creative vision. if you look at the archived work during his tenure at the house of nina ricci, you see similar silhouettes which are visible in his work at theory. if you go back even further to his remarkable work at the rochas, you’ll come away thinking of fashion in a new light. theyskens served as artistic director for fashion label, the rochas from 2002 to his discontinuation in 2006. within that 4 year period, he completely reinvented the label; supplying them with celebrity clientele in the form of nicole kidman, jennifer aniston, kirsten dunst, kate bosworth, jennifer lopez & sarah jessica parker. his work was praised by fashion critics as he was awarded the international style award by the council of fashion designers of america (CFDA) in 2006. after the announcement of the houses closure, many were left shocked. at that time, fashion had begun to take on a new format. it was rapdily becoming more & more about business and figures, less about creativity. theyskens was fearless in his approach in many forms with his work with the rochas. he was noted for not relying on the sale of accessories or lower priced diffusion collections in order to bring in big bucks, which many big labels aim their focus in today’s fashion industry. in fact, some of his designs were considered somewhere between ready-to-wear and couture, which is referred to as ‘demicouture‘. with dresses ranging upwards of $20k while at the rochas, one would wonder how profitable truly high end designs are when the middle market is completely ignored. theyskens was fearless enough to try it.

shortly after the discontinuation of the rochas fashion division, theyskens landed in an artistic directing role at the house of nina ricci, which he flourished in from 2006-2009, when he left the label. speculation pointed the finger at higher ups at ricci for the reason theyskens departed. the designs olivier had created with the house were reportedly the source of creative differences which ultimately resulted in his exiting of the house. as short as his stint at nina ricci was, theyskens was praised for his approach which aimed at a younger demographic & his fall 2009 collection for the house was among the most visible in fashion editorial, being seen in every glossy around the globe. his departure was quite the conversational piece in the world of high fashion & was extremely dissapointing seeing as the house of nina ricci needed a new design direction. shortly after his exit at ricci, theyskens’ next design home was being speculated by fashion news outlets around the internet. in 2011, it was announced that theory chief executive officer, andrew rosen had contracted theyskens to create what we now know as theyskens theory, hence the campaign we see above. the capsule collection soon followed an announcement by theory that theyskens was being installed as the brand’s artistic director, a home which has seemed to be working well for him. this FW12 collection reminds me a lot of theyskens’ spring 2009 collection which he designed while at the house of nina ricci. granted the aesthetic is much darker for the fall, the use of textile & the mindful modernization of silhouette is ever present. i’ve had my eye on the theyskens very closely, waiting for him to find a creative home where he is able to flourish and it seems like theory is just that.

 

all advertising campaign content sourced by glossynewsstand

collection images: theyskens theory, resort

while noticeably more commercialized in concept, olivier theyskens reveals his lastest design collection under the theory label for the 2012 resort pre-season. one interesting aspect i keep seeing as a recurring theme with the theyskens theory hybrid collection is that of lines. while most collections are ruled by these lines & forms of structure, there seems to be an exaggeration or accentuation to the way olivier has approach these collections over the past couple of seasons. while i can appreciate the approach taken with this more mainstream design opportunity, i feel as though the creative expression of olivier is somewhat restricted. though solid, no breaks in creativity or motions of going above & beyond are seen. i love that the collection images were shot in paris & appreciate that from the last two seasons, there seems to be consistency but i want olivier to be able to break free & to really change the game in ways he wasn’t able to, being involved with others houses.

imagesource | style

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: nina ricci

based in a floral themed collection, which tributes the nina ricci brand hertiage; peter copping presents his latest nina ricci collection on the runways of paris fashion week. soft & feminine, the collection is nothing spectacular, despite historical references thoughtfully included. everytime i look at the nina ricci collection, from season to season, i find myself coming away more & more disappointing. while an understanding of signatures, copping has been afforded a great opportunity but many of the designs feel more lifeless than beautiful. perhaps the ricci label has not yet been able to escape the shadow that was cast upon them, following the termination of olivier theyskens. when i compare these collections to what theyskens was creating- it’s almost as fair as comparing a beginning to someone advanced. there is no comparison & every time i see another collection, i can’t help but think of what could’ve been. blue, pink, black & sheer- fall by nina ricci.  

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall collections, new york: thesken’s theory

as we sat & waited for olivier theysken’s to make a return to fashion design since departing the house of nina ricci, his latest endeavor is his involvement with theory, a japanese owned new york city based retailer. of notorious talent & vision, it seems as though olivier is playing by the rules with this collections, his designs are noticeably restrained. dramatic coats with killer silhouettes were seen along classic chunky knits as the models walked the runway with red lips & matted hair. use of cordory, suede & slight use of printed textiles allowed the collection to be more clearly defined for a commercial retail audience. a dark palette of sleek style was seen but i know that olivier can create something more imaginative. i view his work with theory as a refoundation of style, at the root. a clear vision is translated & though i expect more, the collection is suitable for a mass market & provides chic options for wardrobe fillers rather than setting trends. i would love to see olivier breakthrough creatively & embark on creating a namesake label. overall, strong collection & stylish but would like to see more creative push.

imagesource | style

the fashion report: sixty

spring collections: theyskens’ theory, new york

olivier theyskens has remained an emerging talent in the fashion world since his work with the rochas, from the rochas he transitioned as creative lead at nina ricci. during his time at nina ricci, theyskens imagination & vision hit overdrive & a completely new ricci was revealed. upset by the advanced vision & disruption for simple elegance at the house of nina ricci, theyskens was removed from the label. after his departure, anna wintour herself expressed her disgust for theyskens removal & since then we’ve been waiting to see what theyskens would be working on next. as demonstrated in the past, theyskens’ vision reappears like a phoenix from the ashes once more. teaming with moderately priced theory, theyskens merges to create the appropriately titled, “theyskens theory”. allowing olivier to be exposed to a mass market, the collection is both commercially acceptable & progressively chic. relaxed silhouettes are seen in black & white with different shapes & interesting cuts. im excited that, even when not employed by any major fashion house at the current time, theyskens is stil considered a mainstay in fashion. his vision remains entirely intact & who wouldnt kill for lower priced theyskens designed threads? i mean, really. while olivier continues his creative journey the ricci brand sits back rested in normalcy. overall, a solid collection.

imagesource | vogue.it

male models by name: michael solomon

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michael has become enlisted as the newest male model now being represented by empire model managment. initially, i thought his look much similar to olivier theyskens- who used to creatively direct for nina ricci. but then, i thought about it & i think its just the hair, so scratch that comparison. im all about the model transformation & would love to see them cut michael’s hair. he has dope facial features & the hair, being so long & dark, takes away from that. interesting story, jon kortarjarena of wilhelmina, who was seen earlier this week in the nude ad for tom ford, actually started out as a model with super long hair as well. as his career progressed, his hair was cut & now he is one of the most recognizable faces in male modeling. its all about the transformation factor, not what you are- what you become.

imagesource | empiremodels