Tag: paris based design label

rick genest for mugler, fall

as a rising star for his involvement with mugler & fittingly alongside gaga for her ‘born this way’ campaign, rick genest appears for the fall campaign for mugler menswear. shot in black & white, relatively similar to the collections hype previews before the first collection debuted, i feel as though the campaign images make the collection that much more chic. im very about contrast- whether it be black against white, pink against yellow, light against dark or with something more subdued against something extreme. i love the simplicity that is felt in being contrasted to rick’s over the top tatted body. while in the past years we’ve seen male models tap into the tattoo subculture, no model has ever been this vividly tatted & working in fashion. not represented by an agency & seemingly below industry height requirements, genest is setting the stage for a new world of models to open up. shot by mariano vivanco & styled by mugler creative direction, nicola formichetti, rick is the official face of the brand for as far as we can see. while i do admire the groundbreaking move to cast genest- doesn’t he prove to be a distraction to the clothes rather than a compliment? models are a large factor of fashion as they either compliment or take away from the effect of design. one things for sure, when you see genest, the last thing you’re looking at are the clothes. while pop phenom gaga proves to be the distraction of choice for womenswear- is there a greater message at what we’re being distracted by or is there an underlying simplicity that is simply itching to be redefined? all that aside, this definitely gets us thinking.  

imagesource | tfs

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: balmain

with his wildly publicized absence at yesterday, a slew or reports discussing the mental state of balmain creative director have surfaced. christophe decarnin, who has been creative director at balmain is said to have been admitted to a mental institution being treated for depression. while the fall collection seen here, which debuted on the runway just yesterday; is said to have not been designed by decarnin. with the media spectacle that has been hovering over fashion & this year thus far, the balmain collection is one thing that remains the same. the same tired use of metallics, strong shoulders & micro-mini’s were seen. though tired, if the clothes are selling i guess the label will continue to rock with it. as decarnin’s absence hints at a forthcoming change, im hoping that balmain will soon escape this lull in fashion design we’ve seen for way too many seasons to count or care. decarnin, despite being reported as being out on doctors orders, was seen out in paris last night.

imagesource | vogue.fr

collection images: nina ricci, pre-fall

with a design legacy closely associated with delicate & feminine details, the pre-fall collection of nina ricci by peter copping holds true to that standards. knitwear was combined with a wide range of dresses in pastel, prints & black throughout the set but a lacking element is felt. while i understand the importance of referencing brand heritage, i can’t help but think that this could be more extraordinary. though cute, the designs are re-runs of elements we’ve seen in the past & no sense of reinvention is seen here. though casual options & even some evening gowns are seen- the collection, as a whole, doesn’t fare any higher than average. i admire the attempt but am hoping to see much more creativity in paris for fashion week.

imagesource | style

lookbook images: alexander mcqueen, spring

elegant intricacies & delicate theatricality were seen from the alexander mcqueen collection this past spring. serving as a reminder of how beautifully conceptualized the collection was on the runway, we see look book images that allow the designs to further shine without distraction of a crowd or a runway. weaved hairstyles were seen as complimentary to the subtle association with texture in the collections use of print & some of the detailing on the leather pieces. immaculate use of white was seen poetically weaved in & out of the collection palette. i love the collections depth & story; even in passing, the legacy of alexander mcqueen as a vital fashion house of the future rests in the creative hands of sarah burton. an astoundingly inspiring collection, on that is more art than it is fashion. very excited to see what will be presented from burton in 2011.

imagesource | popbee

spring prêt-à-porter: damir doma, paris

an unexpected use of yellow was seen in the damir doma SS11 collection on the runways of paris for fashion week. billowing design was seen with sheer & flowing textiles as shots of neutral, brown & black were also a part of the spring palette. exposed midriffs & relaxed silhouettes were seen allowing the collection to take on that much more of a spring feel. overall, the set is one of great relevance & consistency for the doma label, which has quickly developed it’s design signature since it’s creation in 2006. doma studied fashion in munich & berlin, and soon moved to antwerp where he worked with raf simons & ann demeulemeester. relative of the collections where he gained experience, the damir doma collections are a complete translation of his broad knowledge & fashion education. one of my favorite designers paving the way for the future of fashion.

imagesource | vogue.fr

menswear collections: lanvin, spring

the lanvin men’s SS11 collection hosted a number of wide ranged looks this season. i was quite sure what the inspiration was from looking at the collection as many of the outfits were similar in some areas & too different the next. models walked the runways adorned in necklaces & seen with bare chests. stylistically, the collection was a miss for me. while im usually accustomed to cleanliness in design, being able to appreciate that worn look- here my style preference was not at all satisfied. dull use of color was presented as forms of texture were seen with the collections closing pieces. while i like many more of the formal looks more than those of the casual numbers within the collection, i found myself underwhelmed. im not sure why the lanvin label has been a bit off to me lately; but even recent campaign images  have left me seeking much more than provided.

imagesource | gq