Tag: paris fashion week

kanye west debuts collection in paris

of the flocks of designers in new york, london, milan & paris- it becomes more & more difficult to get noticed, each year; with fashion evolving into an even bigger global monster. this season has been especially different for me; im not one to allow the opinions of others to sway how i feel or the way i perceive different elements of design, or certain aspects of style. as the summer/spring 2012 show season nears it’s end, i find that i have not covered runway as i have in seasons past. intentionally, i’ve made greater efforts to allow myself to become much more of a spectator & then allow myself to look back to see what stands out, what has let me down & what has inspired me. as a writer, i’ve found a certain degree of power in my own voice. this isn’t one of those, ‘im a blogger so i’ll say whatever the fuck i want to get a reaction’ types of situations on my site. i write when i have something to say; i write when my inner thoughts are so powerfully raging, that i can no longer keep them to myself. fashion is about a reaction; it’s about a response to creativity & kanye west’s debut collection drew that type of response.

now ignore the whole ‘christian dior denim kanye tweet’ incident often affiliated with my site & just consider the world of musical celebrity. who comes to mind? in the realm of pop stars, that often annoy us or grow cold one month after their album has dropped- certain stars can’t seem to escape the headlines, tabloids & yes- the blogs. women are an exception in music- they can sell sex without a problem, there’s a market for it. for men, the market is a little bit different. when you’re a male artist- whenever the combination of style & male come into play it’s all of a sudden a question of gay or straight. now, consider this world of musical celebrity & break it down even further. that break down is usually much easier to analyze when you break it down by genre. you have artist like lady gaga, though not original- her level of innovation in terms image as a pop star cannot be ignored. living & breathing in a hybrid-genre of hip-hop & pop; artists like nicki minaj blend the lively artistry of lady gaga, while fusing that gutter girl, hood shit from the streets of jamaica queens- allowing a successful combination to be seen. for these artists it works- both have changed the way that music is viewed in our modern times of the avant garde, the over the top & the ‘what the fuck is she wearing’. for male artists- there is only one & his name is kanye west. since his debut on the rap scene as a producer in 1996, kanye has consistently risen the bar for what it means to be an artist as a black man living in america, existing in the confines of hip-hop history & rap music. while many might not be familiar with his complete set of skills- i find that more people are distracted by negative headlines, labels of ‘asshole’ or ‘egotistical’ to even look & consider that this man has dramatically changed the face of not only hip-hop, but for art as a whole. from complex stage shows to eloquent rap verses that can inspired & offend you all the same, kanye west has taken to the runways of paris fashion week & unveiled a higly anticipated collection which has everyone from the new york times to the hip-hop heads around the world talking.

the collection has been kept under wraps for a few years now, after kanye’s unreleased sportswear collection, pastelle, never seen the light of day. well, if you don’t count that one jacket he wore, which put the urban blogosphere into a tail spin; but that’s besides the point. debuted for the summer/spring 2012 season in paris- buyers, editors & other designers were all present to see what kanye has been working on. for those who haven’t been up on game; the design team consisted of central saint martin graduates & was also heavily guided by consultation from louise wilson, a course director at central saint martins & louise gray, a london based designer. this isn’t one of those posts that drums the details & leave no opinion or personal thought; however, i thought it was completely interesting to see what others had to say about the collection. the new york times’ cathy horyn, whom i love, bashed the collection for ‘bad fit’ & glaringly discussed that kanye’s only skill was in ‘causing a scene’. that said, bergdorf’s heavy-weight fashion director, linda fargo gushed about kanye’s taste level & even shared that kanye seemed to ”react to everything she was reacting to” a couple seasons ago, while both sat front row at a fashion show. though kanye doesn’t wear meat dresses or call his fan’s cutesy names- his level of personalization through style has always been evident since he released his debut rap album, “the college dropout”. the album, which represented raising the bar for hip-hop to me; hosted kanye’s verses where he talked about polos, vuitton & sneakers. in the time following, a slew of images circled publications where kanye was infamous for rocking a vuitton monogram back pack- a move which had everyone at every high school clawing for the affordable bootlegs & gave birth to the name, “louis vuitton don”.

through all of these years, i’ve watched kanye’s taste level evolve. in the ways i’ve felt that hip-hop has taught me of fashion- in those same ways kanye continues to teach a new generation. my fascination with hip-hop is directly associated to the fantasy elements of it. im not talking strippers or sports cars either- im talking champagne, designer brands & beautiful girls who rock chanel. the collection, though criticized by many; is clean, fresh & inspired by our modern times. i had sensed that kanye would take this collection somewhere like paris, because that’s just what he does. i’ve heard so many people bitch about the fact that he put leather & fur on the runway for spring- to which i respond- he’s kanye-fuckn-west, why would he not do that? in terms of model cast, which is what i base a collection on as well- jourdan dunn, anais mali, karlie kloss, anja rubik & shu pei all walked in the show while chanel iman closed. with a few exceptions, the models were on point as were some of the designs. i did notice the lack of fit in some areas- but for a first collection what was seen was solid. the problem with fashion, in a lot of ways, is that good is never good enough. while that may pose a problem- it also presents opportunity. opportunity for those entering to aim higher, work harder & create something that is unlike any other. i’ve heard criticism of overt references to similar designers but don’t feel that what was presented was anything other than kanye. new to the fashion game, as a designer, there was a certain level of style & personalization that i felt. regarding the design, there is a true & fresh perspective coming in, which i applaud. i’ve posted two of my favorite looks here & am very excited to see how the collection progresses into the fall as well as it’s reception on the editorial front, not to mention whether there will be a campaign, who’ll be cast for the campaign & where the collection will be sold. if kanye is doing fur in the spring- imagine what he’ll do for the fall. strong collection & a valiant effort for the first one out. mr. west has, yet again, raised the bar.

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: elie saab

in favor of other collections, the elie saab label has opted to go the stella mccartney/phoebe philo route of chic minimalism & stylish structure. internationally known for their dramatic gowns & poetic approach to design, elie saab has been designing since he was 18 years old & launded his beriut-based label in 1982. with a workshop in lebanon, milan & paris- saab represents a sophisticated type of women, one who understands the power of glamour & appreciates a subdued sense of beauty. in palette, the collection drifted from an opening sequence of black designs to a rift of artistic floral prints, down into bouts of red that transformed into marooned plum; from plum the palette shifted into clay tones of beige that leaked into notes of soft neutral leading to the finale, where karlie kloss closed the show. while we’ve seen the skill of design dramatization demonstrated through saab’s couture collection this past january, i love the collection seen here & commend saab’s approach of the understated. a beautiful collection with soft & feminine touches throughout- couldn’t be any more perfect.

imagesource | vogue.fr

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: miu miu

as mariacarla bosono opened the FW11 miu miu show, broad shoulders & traditional style were seen with slight forms of modernization. the designs of miuccia prada always seem to lean toward this perception of 60’s vintage style. dandelion prints were seen alongside floral & bird prints; an aspect which registered with more classical style. the concepts themselves were nothing new, but the silhouettes that were adapted to each look are what allowed the collection to take on a greater role of innovation. metallic footwear & chic accessories assisted the collection, perfectly- adding the finishing touches on the polished collection that was thoughtfully executed. miuccia certainly knows how morph from super high end fashion, fashion that makes you think & commercialized forms of style that will sell, sell, sell. overall, a strong direction- even though a bit more tame compared to other collections. it’s fresh & young, but still timeless with slight trend included- expect editorial fire.

imagesource | vogue.fr

runway video: louis vuitton fall prêt-à-porter

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: louis vuitton

venturing further into an arena of concept collections, from african-tribal influence to refined classics onto oriental influence & now hotel inspiration; marc jacobs again proves why is he one of the greatest living designers in the history of fashion. living legends naomi campbell & kate moss were among this seasons cast, leaving me stunned in my seat basically plastered to the screen. i loved the bell hop hats & structured, more uniformed looks that tapped into characteristics of hotel staff & was very impressed by the more playful looks done in sheer with exposed bodices. the collection, though structured & clean, really allows the louis vuitton name to take on greater creative value, competiting with some of the more avant garde collections in new york, london, paris & milan. as the largest high end label in fashion, the vision of marc jacobs greatly contributes to vuitton’s reign & has since marc became a part of LV in 1997. over the last few seasons, marc has really hit his stride, conceptually, at vuitton & this season is just as stunning, imaginative & yes, creative as the last. super luxe, extremely chic & lavish down to the last thread- i am standing on my feet for this collection. i was dying for the monogrammed bell hop caps & was mindful of the collections accessories. any runway that casts joan smalls, jourdan dunn & naomi is a collection worth discussing. they punched up the use of monogram this season as clean tailoring, sleek silhouettes & classical textiles took center stage. it’s classic but young as well as fresh & modern. beautiful collection. very, very well done. incredibly ill concepts & execution so sharp, it’s suicidal. i love for structure & classical design, both of which were greatly represented & incredibly re-invented through this collection. complete inspiration from first look to last- stunning. i am living! best collection this season.

imagesource | vogue.fr

runway video: valentino fall prêt-à-porter, paris

fall prêt-à-porter, paris: valentino

from campaigns to concepts, the valentino collection has successfully transitioned into a new era of design, in my book. as one of my favorite designer collections each season, a refined elegance is applied to simplified style & minimal distraction- which allows the foundation of true style to be more clearly identified. from my love of their menswear collection to my admiration of this set, which preys on a more natural aesthetic, i love how much of what is seen, these days at valentino is very subdued. use of sheer, lace & feminine neutrals are well balanced even with use of fur, which is constructed with an air of light elegance. classic design elements like bows, nude leather heels & well tailored dresses- the palette chosen for this collection is just as charming as the collections designs themselves. deep notes of navy, green, maroon & brown were contrasted with ethereal use of pink, muted tones of mustard yellow & soft florals were seen. all in all, it’s feminine, completely charming & very thoughtful. the valentino collections showcase a poetic side of womenswear while others are focused on strict, structure; there is an element of fluidity with the valentino collections. im very pleased with this season’s collection.

imagesource | vogue.fr