Tag: paris runway

spring couture collections: armani privé

an inspired vision developed around the concept of a jewelry chest, the SS11 armani privé collection is one of risky styling & daring direction. modernized through sleek lines, jewel toned designs seemingly dipped in high gloss were seen on the runways of paris for the latest privé collection. i was impressed by the concepts & how they are still relative to what we seen for the privé collections in the past two seasons, but here another dimension is added. inspiring use of color & bold choices in textile allow this collection to escape the grips of ready-to-wear, appropriately transcending each look into the haute couture stratosphere. i loved the glitter embellished blazer & appreciate the strength in direction from every element surrounding the show, including the head coverings on the models & the oversized jewel walls that the show was surrounded by. a very strong collection & thoughtful collection, perfect translation of vision & a wonderful set of gowns. very well done.

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menswear collections: yigal azrouël, fall

without formal training, yigal azrouël has been a designer that has showcased incredible style & well developed vision on the runways with both his menswear & womenswear collections. as a member of the CFDA, azrouël has really become pronounced in his opposition of trends or common style. here, this season, azrouël’s vision seems more commercialized than seasons past. classic concepts were seen with a more typical fashion direction as chunky cardigans & stylish knitwear was seen. i did expect something more progressive, in terms of design, with this collection. i find it very interesting to observe commercialization of a label in fashion; a number of reasons could lead one to stray the path of creative independence to follow the leader, so to speak, in high end fashion. overall, the collection is one of strong design ideals & cohesive vision.

imagesource | gq

menswear collections: thom browne, fall

avant garde american classicalism is an aspect of design i’ve come to closely associate with thom browne. showing for his first season in paris, the thom brown collection was presented through a lavish show that showed models with painted faces settling at a large extended dinner table. over the top use of plaid with use of wool & kilts was seen in the collection which was cohesive from start to finish. as an award winning designer, thom browne is a menswear designer of distinct style & sharp tailoring. the collection is a great added dimension to a men’s style & is classically american. strong direction, distinct style.

imagesource | gq

runway video: damir doma fall menswear, paris

menswear collections: lanvin, fall

with a certain deconstruction of the typical male silhouette, the Fw11 lanvin menswear collection presented in paris was a surprise. with a rich heritage dating back to 1889, the lanvin label has taken a beautiful approach at allowing the label to translate into the modern day fashion era, successfully. the menswear collections of lanvin are designed by lucas ossendrijver with oversight by creative director, albert elbaz. originally founded by jeanne lanvin, the collection began as a way for jeanne to dress her daughter & soon that creative process became a large business. within the 1920’s & 1930’s lanvin became greatly influential becoming known for their virtuoso embroidery, beading, intricate trimmings, use of florals & lavish design details- aspects which are greatly focused upon today, in the labels modern collections. the design skill of jeanne lanvin was developed first through her creativity as a milliner, hence the hats we see in this seasons collection. the palette of menswear we see this season is wide ranged with blacked out pieces being seen alongside shades of yellow, red, grey, brown & green. details of each look are not spared, rather highlighted by other surrounding details as the labels heritage of pronounced florals are well focused & thoughtfully developed. sleek design lines & strong silhouettes, relaxed & structured are all seen within the set as modern takes on quilted coats & trench styles are seen as well. i was very impressed by how thoughtful this collection came out. with the labels womenswear, i feel a certain degree of redundancy in seeing the same silhouettes &  styles each season. a beautiful menswear collection, suitable for the fall. an inspiring modernization of well placed branding heritage.

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menswear collections: raf simons, fall

incredible use of color was added to the architectural menswear collection, presented by the raf simons label in paris. strong design lines were seen throughout the collection as elongated silhouettes allowed the collection to hold just enough drama for the fall season. with studies of industrial design taken by simons himself, it’s within the DNA of his namesake label to inject forms of structured design into the pieces that are created. since the creation of raf simon menswear in 1995, the aesthetic & influence of structure in design was also adapted to the house of jil sander, which simons creatively directs since 2005. use of wool & knitwear were two large elements seen, as color played the largest role in this boldly chic set of menswear. though simple, the power of the collection is seen in the thoughtful details down to the choice in textiles, as well as strategic placement of words, pockets & shots of color. for simple reasons, i love the collections modern sophistication & clean design.

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menswear collections: hermès, fall

véronique nichanian presented the Fw11 hermès menswear collection in paris today. simple styles walked the runway & overall, the collection failed to produce any inspiring forms of fashion. use of leather was the headlining element of this collection, as familiar style strolled the runway we seen david agbodji, paolo roldan, eryck laframboise & marlon texeira among the shows cast. the collections bags were the highlight of the set, as we spotted an oversized birkin bag in black with silver hardware. use of color was seen as bold shots of blue, yellow & maroon were added to the classical palette. the hermès label is known for sophisticated design & refined quality, both of which were seen, but little to no modernization was felt. a leather jumpsuit was seen which slight shook me up as i wondered what story this collection was struggling to tell. the usual set of coats was seen in the form of blazers, leather & trench style but overall, the collection was nothing special- void of inspiration.

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