Tag: pre-fall collection


PARIS – there is a thin line between popularity & overexposure. in the world of design, fashion houses rise & fall but sitting comfortably on the top fashion tier is givenchy. with a rich history etched in hollywood with film legends like audrey hepburn, the modern takeover we’ve seen from the house of givenchy is truly remarkable. from costume film credits & academy award winning style to transexuals multi-ethnic model casts & albino models- givenchy is truly a front runner in the world of high fashion. just about every single givenchy runway look is duplicated by fast fashion faster than you can say ‘runway’. whether it’s rottweiler t-shirts or a leopard printed three piece suit- everything ricardo tisci creates through givenchy is grabbed, eaten & consumed by the market. i’ll admit; the rap name drops, the constant outfitting of kanye west in givenchy- though great, it does seem to take away from the labels luxury appeal. the point of luxury is exclusivity & if everyone is grabbing at it, everyone can attain it- the luxe losses it’s appeal. it goes from class to mass & in the masses becomes trash. it’s odd because we all want things we love to become popular, but when they do, at least for me, they become a bit unattractive or less appealing.

as popularized as the house of givenchy has become for the non-fashion heads who claim to love it, only because they’ve seen it on kanye west- i approaced this pre-fall collection with hesitation. but, much like seasons prior; tisci again delivers a remarkable set filled with modernized design & an evolved direction in comparison to last season. of the greatest design talents in fashion today, tisci has mastered the art of reinvention. each season is always fresh, inspired & beautifully executed. never one to make his favorite girls a secret- joan smalls & lea t. appear in the pre-season lookbook along with brazilian model, caroline trentini. architectual lines & bold palette notes rule the collection as some use of leather are seen. accessories have an extended presence in the collection as chainlink handbags, sunglasses, hats & heels are all cohesively threaded throughout. acting as a fitting segue form last season, what i respect of tisci is his ability to gradually evolve from season to season while not agitating givenchy clientele interests to any length.

with similar use of print, illustration & architectual design lines; this pre-fall set is a usually strong collection considering the pre-season. im anxiously anticipating tisci’s direction for the FW12/13 season, but am doubly excited for what he will unveil for the couture season which follows men’s fashion week, this month. the strict lines & androgynous silhouettes, this collection is what i had expected from givenchy & i value the level of consistency that is delivered from the house each season. i don’t often wish overexposure to anything i love, rather, i hope that it remains in a space of exclusivity where people with true style & true knowledge of fashion & design can discuss & appreciate it. everytime i see images being posted on tumblr, or facebook of the givenchy collections, especially those that are two seasons late- i role my eyes. that said, this collection is a beautiful graduation of season’s past & im expecting tisci to raise the bar for the fall show season. [source]


NEW YORK – of the new school of fashion designers, you really see an emphasis on fusion. of my generation, you see a combination of numerous elements all tied together seamlessly. in high fashion, alexander wang is one of the greatest, young outstanding talents. his ability to take the traditional & supe it up with something ultra-modern is a true skill that not many possess. amidst all the designer & style fakes of new york city, shit, in american in general- wang is a true gem. his namesake label was launched in 2005, after he studied for only one year at parsons new school of design & then dropped out. originally from san francisco, wang had only been in new york for a year before he basically bum rushed the fashion game with his unique design eye & undeniable knack for downtown style. with internships at marc jacobs, teen vogue & involvement with derek lam, wang seems to be a seasoned eye after only a few years in the game. partnered with his own family to run his namesake label, alexander wang represents the essence of opportunity seen in taking risks. in 2008, alexander wang won the CFDA vogue fashion fund & thus created his officially entry into the upper tear of high fashion design. since that time, wang’s eye continues to develop & flourish in front of our very eyes as he deals in design greatness, flying a cut above all of new york city.

this pre-season, as fashion week looms, wang’s eye doesn’t flutter one bit, he is still as hungry as he’s ever been & it shows in the clothes. a unique mixture of formal wear, street chic pieces with a slice of both masculinity & femininity thrown in to balance one another, are all seen within this collection. kept cool in palette with a set of stoned greys, that later become contrasted with rusted red & squashed yellows- wang continues to redefine the definition of cool. as an american, i tend to look at the designers in new york much more different than those in the other fashion capitals of europe. i’ve been very open with my feelings of american fashion being watered down, or of lesser quality & to this i will again restate my opinion. it’s as if america is over saturated with too many influences, which ultimately just kills everything that is pure or even uniquely influenced. this pre-season, alexander want seemingly takes on a design direction that is a bit more restrictive, there’s something very academic about the collection, something very lean, strong & structured. there is a particularly unique amount of attention that is paid to tailoring, a element which is often only left for menswear. i like that even in combination with the collections use of strong lines, there exists this fragile moment of femininity toward the close, in the collections set of draped, body conscious dresses that seemed to act as an ode to fashion design queen of new york city, donna karan.

said to have been provoked in design to create ‘deceptive textures; wang opted for lots of sheer & some knitwear for the pre-fall season. i can always expect something interesting from wang, whether i understand the vision at first or not. responsive as an artist, there is an element of surprise & you get the unexpected when look at his collections. already a fully functioning design label in the force of fashion, wang kills it & hard even in the pre-season. it will definitely be interesting to see if his FW13 collection presented in new york, this february will play to the tune of this set or if an entirely new set of design will be presented. an inspiring set, if any, for the new york fashion scene. looks like wang will continue to win.  [source]


NEW YORK – what’s particularly impressive about the rachel zoe collections is the fact that you can see rachel zoe in every element. from her love of vintage silhouettes to box-structured handbags & oversized shades; its all designed perfectly. as a stylist zoe has made hollywood’s biggest & brightest stars into even brighter red carpet best dress list fixtures. rachel’s eye remains on-point for the pre-fall as yet another stellar collection is presented. for viewers of ‘the rachel zoe project’, zoe regularly gushes about things she loves while also wearing them on the show & viewers get a real sense, not only of rachel’s style, but for the style that rules her life. in speaking with WWD, rachel has said, “it’s about a lifestyle” & in the show you see rachel in her home, office & jet setting from london, paris, new york, milan & her home base of los angeles.

what i love about this collection, as well as many others of the past from zoe is the ability to see the full range of rachel’s incredible eye, as influenced by her travels, career & appreciation for dope style & good design. as a stylist whom has successfully transitioned to the role of designer, the zoe label is quickly grappling onto the fashion market with their range of not only clothes but footwear & handbags, which are presented unsuspectingly within the collection. every single aspect of the collection has evolved & been introduced to the market in a seamless way, the timing for both zoe & the market to make this intersection could not be any more perfect. the use of color in this collection is what keeps it fresh while also allowing it to remain relative to other collections, in terms of trend. slight use of print is seen while outerwear steals the show.

i was particularly impressed with the collections attention to tailoring; given the time zoe has had to learn the business, her newbie status shows nowhere in design or even in presentation. as a long time fashion spectator, i am consistently pleased with what rachel presents & creates with her collections. a strong collection overall & a great set for consumers both on the east & west coats. loved the collections footwear & use of fur as well as leather. as much as i love the collection look book images, im definitely looking forward to the days when rachel zoe will present on the runway & given the success of her collections thus far; doesn’t seem like those days are too far away. as an american designer, rachel embodies what it takes to become a pronounced fashion entity in todays market through superb execution & outstanding business approach. can’t wait for her fall collection. [source]


NEW YORK – in an effort to release myself from the feeling of entrapment amidst all of this high fashion bullshit; the nature of collection reviews will be going slightly different. only dedicating myself to shit i absolutely love, the 2012 pre-fall collection presented by jason wu fall under that category. after underwhelming collections by elie tahari, DKNY, chanel, oscar de la renta, carolina herrera & michael kors- the jason wu collection struck me dead. while some collections have had outstanding looks, overall, as a collection the jason wu pre-fall set, thus far, takes the cake. inspired by illustrator, charley harper & the maharaja, the collection takes on a beautiful fall palette. most outstanding was the use of green within this collection’s palette. wide ranged, stylistically, the collection takes everything associated with fall & adds wu’s magical design touch in a perfect way. jewel tones were given added depth in the collection as the set closed with a dramatic grouping of gowns. the collection could not have been more beautiful; clean lines, beautiful jackets, super sick use of fur & well tailored pant looks. strong execution, expert style brought to life. considering how young of a design wu is, his approach to high fashion & fine design has beautifully evolved in front of our very eyes. probably one of my favorite designers in the american market. standing ovation to this collection, im on my feet. [source]

collection images: jil sander, pre-fall

structured minimalism with a vintage palette, the jil sander collection is an impressive effort considering this as the fashion pre-season. sleek lines, clean silhouettes & unbreakable concepts were seen in the collection which capitalized on strength through construction. rusted oranges were combined with smoked greys & blues with a touch of textured maroon as well. all in all, the jil sander label is among the leaders of the new era of fashion- minimal, stylish & timeless through innovation. i love this collection & it’s clear translation of style. a beautifully constructed collection that will surely follow a solid fall collection come february.

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collection images: versace, pre-fall

taking a walk down memory lane, the pre-fall collection presented by the house of versace draws a larger focus on print. while much of the versace legacy is about over the top, gaudy, gold printed glamour; the print that was conceptualized for this pre-season set has a more modernized feel & cut. i love the printed blends of animal & floral, a concept i have not yet seen from any other designer. almost like a recap of everything the italian fashion house has done, the set is a collective of versace signatures- metallics, snakeskin, leopard print- it’s all done very well & true to the versace name. im expecting great things from versace this year; last year, with menswear & womenswear- i was completely blown away & am hoping to have that same reaction in 2011.

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collection images: dsquared², pre-fall

coats, formal wear, prints & knitwear were all elements seen in the pre-fall collection presented by dean & dan of DSQUARED² for the pre-season. though impressive, singularly, from look to look- no actual creative interpretation was seen through fashion design. understanding the concepts of the label & expecting a consistent delivery from season to season; im betting that the real show stopping pieces will be held for fall show season, on the runways in milan. that said, the collection serves its purpose successfully in providing an additional set of wardrobe pieces for thirsty consumers. i love the use of print & gowns in this set.

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