Tag: valentino


WHAT YO’ NAME IZ? caroline brasch nielsen, frida gustavsson, jac jagaciak

shot by deborah turbeville, the house of valentino continues their push to become a greater threat of competition for other labels in the luxury sector. as one of my absolute favorite labels hailing from milan, i love that the modernization & classicality of design that is felt in the house of valentino’s collections is accurately translated through image. i greatly admire the decesion to once again go with turberville. debroah turbeville also shot last season’s valentino campaign & is a particularly interesting choice, given the fashion markets saturated presence of campaigns by steven meisel, inez + vinoodh & the gold standard of fashion photography at the moment, mert alas + marcus piggott. turbeville seems to capture the new school aesthetic of valentino perfectly. the models appear poised & the clothes elegant while an air of darkness is also felt. from the intricately ornamented walls & gold details, the backdrop of the campaign serves beautifully as a complimentary element to the somewhat subtle set of advertising images.

each model seen is allowed their time to shine while the cast softly blends through greater anatomic cohesion. while i will say that the addition of more ethnic female models would’ve been much more beautiful, i understand the aesthetic though i may not completely agree with how ‘beauty’ is being represented. i will say, while i love the presentation of valentino’s shows, collections & notice the power of good casting for all these elements- i do feel that in the next few seasons, a change will be necessary. the floral accents, the sheer- it’s nice, but can become dull in comparison to other labels. while it may not be suitable to compare labels & aesthetics- that’s what fashion is all about, surpassing or out-styling, out-designing that of your competitors. while i admire the romanticism, i would like a remix. something more modern rather than classic. not to say im looking for something too far beyond classic, i understand this is a part of the brand’s DNA, but still. there is a way that other labels have infused modernizm with their distinct branding identity in such a way that has ushered in a greater, much more unstoppable approach to creating a style that allows a label to advance into the future. this, i feel, is necessary for labels to do in order to remain competitive in the market. that said, this aesthetic has been well represented, as it relates to the house of valentino & it’s history. i look forward to the upcoming spring show season for womenswear & greatly admired the label’s spring menswear as well as their couture collection. i hope they serve up the same modern but minimal aesthetic for their womenswear collections come september.

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ITALY – i have said many times before & this season is no different, i have a special place in my heart for the house of valentino. when looking at collections, i envision whether or not i would actually wear the pieces being shown. certain collections, im more selective about what i like- others i love in their entirety. the spring 2013 menswear collection from valentino is one of those ‘i love’, completely & entirely.  since maria grazia chiuri & pier paolo piccioli took the helm at the label, i have been watching. i gave them a chance within my own taste level, not holding them to the standard in which the valentino legacy was built. i allowed myself to understand where this new direction would lead, what level of taste was looking to be served up on the runways from couture to womenswear & now with what we see being served for menswear. thus far, though i have been aware of criticism the label has faced, i still love each collection every season. challenging my own understanding of style, brand heritage & the evolution of aged legacy- valentino as a label is one that never disappoints me. though the collection kept things simple, it’s that simplicity that i seek amidst all of the chaos of more experimental labels in fashion. through greater simplicity, i feel like the true foundation of style can be felt on a greater wavelength. it’s more authentic when stripped.

through belief that couture is a culture, the valentino label looked for ways to bring that same level of craftsmanship to their menswear endeavors. which is exactly what i love about runway- what we see in images or videos is not even a thought when you see, feel & wear the clothes. the value of style cannot be properly felt in looking at simple photographs or even when looking at the collections in motion. which is exactly why i have such an intense need to articulate things- so that you feel them rather than just ‘seeing’ them. which is what it’s all about for me during show season. look after look, from the multilayer concepts with color blocking, i was floored at how intensely i was impacted by clothes that appear so simply. the fact that the label is looking for ways to introduce couture style craftsmanship is completely necessary at this stage in the game.  in amping up for london men’s collections, i heard a statistic that said menswear is growing at twice the rate of womenswear- which is exciting. not only for us dudes, but the fact that our development as a culture is evident with the knowledge of this statistic. it shows that we, as people have advanced to a new stage in the game that is much more aware & concerned with style. aspects of grooming, showcasing of design, sales of cosmetics- it’s all evidence that we are taking greater measures to look good, to present better. i love that, amidst the intention to promote a higher level of craftsmanship, the clothes still appear as wearable- they’re just constructed better. the choice in textile is more refined, but it doesn’t come off as pretentious. the intent is so high fashion, but the clothes aren’t off-putting- like many high fashion collections can be. overall, it’s a high end approach without the ‘im better than you’ complex. cohesive from start to finish, i will say- this is my favorite collection this season, thus far. [source]


PARIS –  of the many collections presented around the world, each year & season, the house of valentino is one i’ve become most affectionate towards. the house of valentino is one that i was always aware of & overtime, i’ve become much more aware. aware in the sense of the brand’s history, it’s development, it’s hardships & the point of valentino’s own retirement from the company; as well as the reasoning behind it. an in-depth knowledge of any fashion house, i feel, is necessary in order to really appreciate a direction, archival references or even trends. in the realm of haute couture, techniques take the place of trends as the traditional & historically valued take center stage before anything else. this season, the house of valentino continues to build a digital presence, as this season’s collection was the first ever couture live stream. the presence of film & media are currently surrounding the house, from my perception. upon valentino garavani’s retirement, the house has seen radical, modern changes in areas of style, branding & advertising. a move which has to be benefiting the house, granted i think they’re doing a really dope job at things. it’s always tricky when a fashion house enters a transformation, or goes through an image overhaul or, for lack of better articulation, a make-over. the modern transformation the house has taken on definitely takes into consideration the houses history & preserves the value of design that was put fourth by valentino himself.

speaking again in reference to the connections to film, remember that awareness of valentino’s history i mentioned? most of that uncovering of truth about the fashion house was discovered in my viewing of the documentary, ‘valentino: the last emperor‘. the documentary sheds a great deal of light on the rise & fall of valentino, while uncovering how ugly & tragic it can be for true artists & designers working in fashion, transitioning from the old ways of the industry, to the now much more globalized format. from the purchased stakes by luxury investment groups, to seeing the atelier bicker about construction of gowns; to valentino’s last runway show- everything was shown. the frustration, the glamour, the history & the future- it was all touched upon. it was that connection & understanding that really reshaped my perception of the house. what i love of current valentino creative directors, maria grazia chiuri & pier paolo piccioli, is their awareness. with the two working at the house under valentino himself, prior to their promotion; they honor the values & legacy of the italian label, which i completely admire. while sitting & watching the live stream, i welcomed the collection into my psyche. this season, i wanted to take more time to focus on each houses inspiration. i think an overall vision of a collection is better translated when you understand what was looking to be represented through design. the recurring theme of film again devoured this inspired collection even further.

upon seeing the valentino documentary, i decided to really bulk up on films that inspire me. in close reference to who i have become inspired by, people i have come into contact with; i’ve had strong connections to image, style & music but none as strongly established to film. over the last year & a half, i’ve been collecting films that represent a form of nostalgia for me or allow me to see something i haven’t seen before or just inspire my love of style & art, my love for design & aesthetics. amongst my collection are an assortment of fashion documentaries, historic re-tellings & concert DVD’s. usually, in an effort to stay inspired, i just let them play, while i continue to do other things- i’ve seen every one multiple times & really only am interested in films that make me feel a certain way. through glamour, through love, through vulnerability, through triumph. one of the films? sofia coppala’s marie antoinette. i remember one day, alone in my room, i sat while the film just played. i remember hearing the same piano rift from kanye west’s “blame game”, from his ‘my beautiful dark twisted fantasy’ album. while the film played in the background, the sound of that rift stopped me. i sat, just staring at the screen- taking in the scene thinking of the creative process & how kanye must’ve heard this same rift from the film, which then provoked him to use it for his album. i posted a tweet of my discovery but due to lack of enthusiasm from my followers, ended up deleting the tweet. as others who’ve followed my work or me, as a personality, can attest; i’ve been very vocal about coppola’s antoinette, finding aesthetic inspiration in the costumes & setting of the film. while watching this season’s valentino couture live stream, as floral print from the collection began to hit the runway; delicate & feminine as if from another time, i thought to myself. “reminds me of marie antoinette”, then the same kanye sampled rift played during the show’s runway soundtrack. immediately, i sat up, much like i did upon my own discovery of the sample during the film. avril 14th, played by richard james. from the original motion picture soundtrack of sofia coppola’s marie antoinette. reading up on the inspiration of the collection, there it was- thirteenth century marie antoinette, in her garden of versailles was listed as this season’s inspiration for the collection.

there is a scene in the film that really struck a cord with me. in the story, marie antoi, as she was affectionately called by her mother, would meet regularly with a dress maker & hair stylist. in one scene, kirsten dunst, whom played the french queen, met with her dress maker & said, “i want something more simple, natural- to wear in the garden”. this soon followed an extensive garden scene. content & at peace, that same feeling is what i felt seeing the collection. the fact that i am able to pin point where the sound, style & film references come from is amazing. in this wide world of inspiration i’ve created for myself, immersed in sound, style & imagery- a sense of accomplishment. as an artist, i was able to translate a complete & total vision, delivered through design & sound. from milan, through a computer screen- i interpreted their vision, spot on. it’s these moments, these mere glimpses of creativity; that act as reassurance for the artist that i have become & the artist i am meant to be. while i could talk about the flowing florals, or compare this season to last couture season- i won’t. i’ll let you interpret the collection as you want. simply put i was stunned by the collection for it’s direction & loved every moment of the eleven minute show. collections like these are why fashion exists- they take inspiration from one place & house them for a world of people to see- vulnerably allowing them to be either persecuted or praised- much like marie antoinette. the symbolism that i am able to define, the connection i am artistically able to identify- that. is. fucking. fashion.  [source]


MILAN – 50 years ago this season, valentino garavani showed his first collection in florence, italy. his 1962 debut set the tone for international interest & the historical presence of the house of valentino. considered a maestro of italian couture at the time, the house of valentino has seen many modernizations & many business changes. from worldwide brand expansion to stakes purchased & ultimately shape shifting the label, the italian based brand is one of extreme value in fashion. while valentino, himself, is no longer with the company; current creative directors, maria grazia chiuri & pierpaolo piccioli have done well in their appointment & have allowed the label to take on a reinvigorated direction. though reinvigorated, both chiuri & piccioli have remained true to the valentino signature, having both worked alongside the italian design maven for over a decade. in an effort to allow their label to have a stronger presence in high fashion, the label has taken greater strides in re-introducing their menswear label on the global stage. after presenting off-runway collections for a few seasons now, this runway show marks the official re-entry of the valentino menswear line into men’s fashion week. presented as the first collection of many to follow this season in milan.

i loved the collection for it’s classical & modern feel. the valentino label has a strong history rooted in modern sophistication & in the last few year, womenswear has soaked the spotlight. amidst the expected fall coats were white shirt/black tie combination looks as the palette drew you in a bit more. the collection hoses a number of caped coats that i was incredibly obsessed with by the end of the show. the collection seems to play nice with the unspoken rules of menswear & tailoring was done in a perfected, precise manner. perhaps the most inspiring aspect of the collection were the men’s accessories; most menswear lines are heavily based on coats, pants or ties but accessories are what allow a brand to really expand, considering that they can act as bait for consumers in both the middle & upper tiers of the market. lined by projection screens, the runway was dowsed with deep maroons & heavy forest greens with the regular cameo notes of white & black being balanced with husky greys. as one designer womenswear label which i love, not even just for design but for the emotional connection i’ve established with the company itself; im extrememly excited to see that a greater effort to produce menswear & to promote the line is now being taken by the house of valentino. it’s always astonishing to me, labels that dominate in creative concepts through womenswear & couture always seem a bit dulled with menswear. well balanced, the menswear collection could easily be presented alongside any valentino womenswear look & appear handsomely as a male counterpart. a perfect time to be re-introduced, im now fully excited about the house of valentino’s upcoming collections of couture & womenswear. this set the tone for what i expect & love of menswear, incredibly well. i would, literally, wear every piece in this collection- as it speaks to the classic/minimalist/sophisticated dude in me.

video: valentino haute couture, fall

fall menswear collezioni, milan: valentino

i’ve had my eye on the valentino label with that much more intensity since valentino, himself, retired. i’ve been waiting in the wings for the labels menswear collection to strike a cord with me, creatively & here we see just that. creative directors maria grazia chiuri & pier paolo piccioli have created a stylish set of clean menswear design fully equipped with sleek lines, classic style & a rich, moody palette. a set of neutrals, varied shades of blue, military shades of green & gold hardware add to the collections chic factor. my love for structured coats was quenched with this collection as wool coats & additions of leather were added to otherwise expected styles, allowing the pieces to take on modernized forms of classical style. a really impressive fusion of forward & timeless fashion. i find direct similarities with this collection & my own existing wardrobe & am beyond thrilled to see that the valentino menswear division back to creating hot shit. i am super, super, super inspired & in love with what was presented this season. my favorite menswear collection of the fall. now if only i could book the campaign..

imagesource | style.it

collection images: valentino, pre-fall

delicately handled is the valentino legacy since he retired in 2008 & that same essence of delicacy is felt through the label’s current collections. completely resurfacing the chic factor of the label, brand creative directors, ,  have managed to collectively represent the valentino past while injecting elements of the new generation. feminine charm & sheer textiles layer the collection that is kept simple with neutrals, black & pale yellows. red, a valetino signature is also seen in the collection as simulated florals lightly tip the edges of a few of the dress designs. i admire the cohesion seen from the valentino label in the last three seasons. from a dark aesthetic laced with fluttering bows, to the white couture collection & now to this- a feel of continuity is being greatly represented & i am thrilled to see what is presented for fall. a beautiful & refined vision is seen for the pre-fall with unexpected use of animal print & amazing attention to silhouette. i love this collection & am always exceptionally satisfied with the collection put forth by the iconic fashion house. a stunning addition to an already astounding legacy. i applaud this collection while standing on my feet.

imagesource | style