Tag: yves saint laurent

FASHION ON FILM: L’AMOUR FOU (2009)

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PARIS – perhaps one of the darker documentaries in the realm of fashion, of my collection. yves saint laurent’s life was riddled with bouts with addiction, depression and all through each of those struggles was pierre bergé. in the documentary, you get an inside look at laurent’s private residence and score a glimpse at his astounding art collection. the film re-traces the meeting of both pierre and yves, when yves was appointed creative director at christian dior in 1947 when he was 21 years of age. cited as business partners, the love between bergé and laurent appears stern and unbreakable. the documentary is heavily weighed down with dark music, and discussion of love and it’s craziness, ringing true to the films title. an emotionally gripping look at the dedication of bergé to yves saint laurent, the documentary reveals footage of laurent’s funeral, as well as private film footage from the 70’s when yves saint laurent was hanging around a young mick jagger and socializing with andy warhol. a legendary reputation in fashion, yves saint laurent’s passing resulted in an auction of certain art pieces, which you become acquainted with through the documentary. showcasing the dark side of a love story rather than the glitz that is often associated with high fashion; i like this documentary for it’s blunt and sometimes forcefull glare at high fashion, and dimensions of love. bergé recounts his life with yves and shares personal stories of triumph while sharing how he was affected by the famed designers own struggles. an interesting look at the life of yves saint laurent, but one you need to be prepared for mentally. with all the glamorous documentaries out there, this provides range to any fashion documentary collection, and gives you a deeper look into the lives of those who provide inspiration.

THE GREAT FASHION SHIFT

what began as rumors & speculation, murmured throughout the fashion world, has now escalated to shouts. shouting from reputable sources like women’s wear daily & the new york times’ cathy horyn; it appears that the removal of john galliano as creative director at christian dior has been the first motion in what i refer to as, the great fashion shift. after allegations & a trial set fashion headlines on fire; galliano’s fall from grace, though tragic, has set the groundwork for a much needed creative rotation in the world of high fashion. as coveted a position at dior has everyone buzzing- who would step in as galliano’s replacement? what about couture? what about womenswear? what about galliano’s own namesake label? names were being spit from every direction; hedi slimane, haider ackermann, ricardo tisci, alber elbaz, lagerfeld- every creative director was being mentioned. as enticing as some of these names & label associations sounded- the only ones who remained tight lipped were the most important players of all, fashion house reps. after consistent speculation from a number of sources around the fashion forum & internet blogosphere; much of that speculation is being confirmed as this fashion shift is now in full swing.

discussed here previously, WWD speculated news regarding raf simons leaving his post at jil sander to hop over to the house of dior. while reps for both labels remained on hush, announcement of simons’ exit from sander was headline news early last week. with raf’s exit from sander, that left many questioning who would fill the space as director at that label. in a completely unexpected move, just a day following the news of raf simons’ departure, it was announced that jil sander herself would return to her namesake label after 12 years. this news, was a shock considering sander’s reasons for departure were feuds with executives at the prada group, who then owned a 75% stake in the sander label. after missing from the game & a successful collaboration with japanese fast fashion retailer, uniqlo, under her belt; sander appears to be excited about her design homecoming. “i am confident that this is the time for modern sophistication, for attractive, wearable fashion which is true to the new century” says sanders, who has already returned to begin her work at the label. as the last collection creatively directed by raf simons strolled the runway, simons did his final walk after his stunning collection & said goodbye with a tearful wave. while reps at the house of christian dior have not yet responded to speculated reports regarding simons taking the helm at their label, i expect that announcement will come very soon, likely before show season comes to a close. the timing of these announcements & the release of such statements has definitely been keeping fashion on high alert.

at present, christian dior has put an interim director in place in light of galliano’s removal following his racism controversy. bill gaytten, whom served as galliano’s assistant for a number of years, is the interim artistic director & presented a stellar haute couture collection. under the guidance of gaytten, everything seemed to be under control at the historic french fashion house. while no announcement has been released, the house of dior shows their fall/winter 2012-13 collection on march the 2nd & i would not be shocked if this prompted them to also announce simons as new creative director. in terms of publicity, this would create a media frenzy & would overshadow other fashion news of the moment, which is a smart tactic for gaining even more media focus. amidst all of the christian dior movement & gossip, another label’s creative director was also being put into question. stefano pilati, whom has been in place as creative director at yves saint laurent since 2004, having been involved with the label since 2000. since pilati began as director, the internet & media outlets have been abuzz about his removal, low sales figures & these rumors never died down. while these claims were shot down a number of times by yves saint laurent press reps, it was confirmed by both women’s wear daily (WWD) & the new york times that pilati will present his last collection for the house march the 5th, in paris. what i find so tragic of this removal is that pilati had seemingly hit his design stride. after murmurs of low sales figures, those figures went up after pilati flexed his muscle in areas of accessories with leather goods. this move turned profitability around at the label in 2008 & from that point onward, pilati has re-established some of the heritage of the french label; by making it a point to tap into parisienne concepts, shapes & silhouettes. no news or speculation of pilati’s next move are known at the present time.

with pilati vacating the directing position at yves saint laurent, some have speculated the return of hedi slimane. speculating that slimane would return to YSL, a label who’s menswear division he used to direct. with an impressive resume under his belt & years of experience in the fashion game, slimane has played an influential role in menswear fashion history. as the once creative director of menswear at YSL, slimane was put in position as their creative director of menswear by pierre bergé, co-founder to the yves saint laurent label, in ’96. in this role, slimane introduced the iconic ‘skinny jean’ & later left the label to move on to a directing position at christian dior in ’01. as director of menswear, slimane’s involvement was instrumental in the launch of the dior homme sub-label. with dior homme, slimane dressed rock stars, mick jagger & david bowie among many others in music, prompting an incredibly influential presence of dior’s menswear division, while being the first menswear designer to be awarded, by the council of fashion designer’s of america (CFDA), the international award. during this period, slimane has been credited for redefining the male silhouette.  in 2007, though discussion of having a namesake label funded, slimane walked away from dior & did not renew his contract. since then slimane has not been active in the world of fashion design & has focused his creative energy in photography. this move has allowed slimane to remain a force in fashion, while separating him from the pressures of design. as a photographer, slimane has had a number of exhibitions & has worked with a wide range of prestigious clients in, both publication & advertising.

so with all of this speculation, which will render true? will raf simons head over to christian dior? will hedi slimane return to yves saint laurent? considering that slimane has an incredibly influential track record with the house of christian dior, i wouldn’t be surprised if he was put into place at that label; while simons could be a fit for yves saint laurent. in the game of fashion, there are often shake-ups, but there haven’t been this many big budget shifts, all at once. while i sit back, watching headlines & speculation circle the perimeter, i feel that this shift is needed more so now than ever. the house of christian dior has suffered a great loss with the removal of john galliano, but things will definitely get interesting from this point onward. these creative directors have a direct impact on the way we view clothing, the way we precieve style & the way our society is shaped- through advertising, cut & something that appears as minimal as silhouette. whether you’ve known it or not, these artists are the great motivators of our future, leading influence onto the runway, each season. for there is no greater piece of history than that of which we wear on our backs. [source]

collection images: yves saint laurent, resort

clearly translated is the nautical inspiration of the 2012 resort YSL collection. under the creative direction of stefano pilati, the french based luxury label has seen greater forms of design minimalism & intellectually inspired collections; while talk of ousting & replacement have been flying rapidly through the air. of unexpected popularity after what seemed like a lull of reception, the work of pilati has now been embraced by YSL cliente & here a fitting resort collection is presented. beautiful red leather is seen alongside stiped looks as anchors adorned models in pattern & on the collections accessories as well. a range of silhouettes was seen as the back end of the collection was seemingly dipped in floral, adding a range of design versatility to the set which provided a number of cuts, styles & forms. overall, the collection lightly serves it’s purpose for the pre-season; whether this is just a taste of SS12 or a complete different direction has yet to be seen but we shall see.

imagesource | style

vincent cassel for yves saint laurent la nuit de l’homme

video: a moment with stefano pilati

runway video: yves saint laurent fall prêt-à-porter

menswear collections: yves saint laurent, fall

as one of the most influential designers of the last twenty years, the house of yves saint laurent is to credit for the masculine transformation of womenswear. as the appointed designer for the house of dior, by christian dior himself, the influence of yves saint laurent as a designer & creative force is one of the most recognizable in fashion & that infuence has been injected into his namesake label since it’s creation in 1962. creatively directed by stefano pilati, the FW11 menswear collection taps into the french heritage of the label while focusing on sharp tailoring & clean design, elements which the YSL label has become known for. a rich palette is seen in the 26 look collection, as bursts of color are seen through the use of yellow, green, purple & blue. i had expected more thought to go into the menswear collection this season & am very disappointed by what was presented. while the designs are not particularly bad, they do not do the historical value of YSL any justice. a successful label is one that can successfully dominate in both worlds of womenswear & menswear with the addition of accessories, fragrance & cosmetics. with numerous reports questioning the vitality of the house under the direction of pilati, i can’t help but wonder what the real issue is in terms of design. hoping to see much greater development in the next season & with the FW11 menswear campaign.

imagesource | gq